Hot air reflow works best for removal and replacement. Another method used is 
to fish a strong thread under the component. Heat up on side and grab both ends 
of the string and pull it out, under the pins. Wipes out the solder connection. 
Repeat for the other side(s).
To replace, dot all the pins with solder (liquid type works best for this, NOT 
the brand name “Liquid solder” cause…it is Not.  ).  Then use hot air tool to 
get all melted. The chip should rotate itself into alignment due to surface 
tension. I have done a few like this. May want to practice on an old pc board 
or scrap with simular component. Take it off and put it back til your 
comfortable for the real deal.  Good Luck.

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: BVARC <[email protected]> on behalf of John Mechura via BVARC 
<[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, 28 June 2026 12:37:54
To: BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB <[email protected]>
Cc: John Mechura <[email protected]>; Daniel Poirot <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [BVARC] Looking for reflow help

When these devices first came out the reflow equipment was prohibitively 
expensive for my small operation, so I devised another way.  First, I had a 
Weller controlled output soldering station that I got a replacement tip for.  
The tip was of the lowest temperature, longest of the selection and came to a 
1/64" tip.  Then I would flood all the pins on one side of the IC with about as 
much solder as they would take.  Starting at one end, I would then pry and bend 
them up away from the board and after that I would gently wick the solder away 
and see how it went.  Don't overheat, do it in stages.  These were 32 to 48 or 
thereabout pin square ICs.

Once, when another technician soldered the IC in 90 degrees clockwise, through 
no fault of his own, I was able to use this technique to not only remove the IC 
but also to clean and straighten the pins and re-use it.  The technician made 
this mistake because the service literature was mis-printed as to where pin 1 
was located on the board image.

So it can be done that way if you have the right soldering iron.  Maybe.  The 
main thing is not to damage the board.  The razor saw and cutting pliers can be 
damaging also.  I would use a Dremel nowadays.

Keep in mind that pick-and-place robots place the components on the board over 
a drop of glue so as to keep them in place when put in the wave soldering 
machine.
The glue should release when you are through soldering if it does not cool down 
and re-grip.  If it does this, when you lift off the IC it pulls up a spider 
web of pc traces and you may as well throw it in the trash.

This was 40 years ago.  Nowadays I would just use the reflow if available or a 
Dremel cut-off wheel.

Also...  I wouldn't obtain the replacement until I had removed the part and 
made sure the board was still OK if you used my procedure.  Unless you were 
feeling lucky.

John, KI5HOC



On Sun, Jun 28, 2026 at 11:55 AM Daniel Poirot via BVARC 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Howdy!

I hope everyone is having the best Field Day ever!

I have an issue with a SDR. The microcontroller is bricked and rip and replace 
is the only option.

Does anyone have a way to remove a 32-pin TQFP surface mount part?

Reflow is my first choice, followed at a distance by Xacto knife and side 
cutters!

I am at a loss and welcome any suggestions!

73
Dan KJ5IZK

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