The biggest difference is that a tapered bellows allows the camera to fold
up smaller and allows the camera to be smaller from the smaller front
standard (smaller lensboards also allow a system with several lenses to fit
in a smaller case). For these reasons, tapered bellows are almost always
used for field cameras. You may be able to get a little more movement with
short lenses if you have a tapered bellows because the bellows compresses
more (folds are bulky and in a straight bellows, are on top of each other,
the bellows cannot be compressed as much).
A larger bellows has less flare when using a lens with lots of excess
coverage. A straight bellows will be larger so should have less flare, but
I don't think this size difference is enough to really make a difference.
It may matter more if your inner bellows material reflects more light than
commercial bellows.
Monorails typically use straight bellows to allow the front and back
standards to be the same and the camera more modular. This allows things
like using an extra standard and bellows as a lens hood or for extra
extension for macro or really long lenses. On these cameras, bellows are
generally easily interchangable and a bag bellows is used for short lenses
(there are some exceptions like the Calumet Cadet where you get a whole new
camera with fixed wide angle bellows for short lenses).
I've never made a bellows, but would guess that folding a straight bellows
would be a little easier than a tapered one. All the folds are the same and
the inner and outer fold lengths are the same.
John Sparks
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bradley Small
Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 11:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Bellows
I am not sure if this actually answered my question or not.
I am building a 4x5, but I am in design phase now. I am questionning the
differences in bellows design *because* I want to determine whether the
front and rear need to be the same size...
Again, what are the benefits of a straight bellows or tapered bellows. Or is
it purely a mattter of aesthetics or weight?
-- Bradley
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Daniel Rhoades" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:36:28 -0700
>That depends on the type of camera you are building. If you are building a
camera that has the front and rear frames the same size then a straight
bellows will do the trick. This would be best for a 4X5 camera. If you are
building a 5X7 or 8X10 or even larger than it is likely that your front
frame will be smaller than your rear frame (but even that's not true! You
could build straight frames even then but the whole camera would be larger
and heavier). If your front frame is smaller then you will have to build a
tapered bellows. My suggestion would be to build and finish the frames
first and then you can build bellows to perfectly fit the frames.
>
>Good luck and happy building!
>Dan Rhoades
>www.rhoadescameras.bizland.com
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bradley Small
>Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 7:24 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [Cameramakers] Bellows
>
>
>Hi y'all --
>
>Made my first practice bellows last night. It cam out pretty good for a
first shot. My question is this, which is better tapered or straight? and
why would someone want one over the other?
>
>-- Bradley
>
>
>
>
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>
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