--- In [email protected], Brian Dominic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: snip
> > > >I intend to take great care in the refitting of the solid fuel stove, > >having seen the charring caused by the previous installation and having > >read about unfortunate instances. I think that I am OK on the stove > >itself but I'm not sure about the stovepipe, in particular the > >arrangement where it passes through the lining and insulation. Any > >advice welcome. > > > Keep the insulation well back from the hole and get a metal > ring-shaped "trim" to go around the pipe where it goes through the > lining - you can then get away with murder with cutting the lining to > suit. If you can, get a long jigsaw blade and cut the lining through > the chimney collar, having first drilled a hole to give you a > "starting point". > > Brian L Dominic > I disagree with Brian to a degree. If the stove runs away as they all will do eventually - usually through "driver error") the pipe may well get red hot. The roof lining on a friends boat with such a ring had darkened considerably where hidden by the trim. I removed about a 14 inch square section of roof lining, between two transverse battens and fitted a pair of longitudinal battens sealed to the roof to form a vapour sealed box with the roof spigot in the centre. I cut a square of Masterboard (actually the B&Q equivalent) with hole in the centre for the pipe and threaded it onto pipe before fitting the pipe in place. I gave the inner surface of the roof a few good coats of paint because it is likely to get condensation on it and when dry stuffed the "box" with rock wool insulation, finally screwing the masterboard in place and painting it black with the stove pipe paint so it blends in. Please do not use any wood around the body of the stove. Tiles stick to masterboard as well as they do to plywood. Also try to leave an air-gap between the surround and any other wood. Tony Brooks
