Gerhard -

It's pretty easy - since you have to date out the ports to put in the new 
gasket.  Get a roll of butyl tape (RV suppliers carry it or you might be able 
to get some from an auto glass shop)  It comes in a roll of round tape (some 
places carry a flat tape about an inch wide) It's rolled up with waxpaper 
between it.  Simply peel off the tape and apply  tape around the exterior 
window frame.  If you use the round kind it's easier to make the bends and you 
only have one joint.  But if you get the flat kind just overlap on the corners 
- it will seal itself as you tighten things up. Replace the window along with 
the new gasket, put the outside frame in place and then tighten things down.   
Unlike caulk you just tighten everything down and there's no waiting for it 
set.  Actually the tape doesn't set it's always flexible. Nice thing is as you 
tighten the screws seals the them.  As you tighten the window frame the tape 
will squeeze out, just trim it off the excess when you are done.


--
Dave - sort of sticky
C27 #5212
Windabout
Cape Cod
http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Goss, Gerhard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Phil,
> Thanks a bunch for the great support.  (I am embarrassed that I referred
> to "windows" instead of port lights.  Guess I am not a sailor yet.
> Working on it though.)
> Can you explain the butyl rubber tape application a bit more?  I am not
> sure I fully understand and would hate to screw up more.
> 
> Gerhard
> "The Mystic" 
> 1991 #4882
> Lake Michigan/Macatawa, Michigan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Phil Agur
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 12:21 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: windows
> 
> Gerhard,
> 
> One of the reasons not to use silicon for sealing on a boat is its poor
> adhesive properties. At this point that is to your advantage. I know
> you're
> talking about a large area but it will usually just rub off by hand.
> I've
> been able to start a piece peeling and with a light touch pull it out
> level
> and lift so the edge of the bond underneath is strained and have several
> inches come up before the chunk splits off. I was redoing a forward
> hatch
> and the consistent thickness of the silicon may have been a big plus in
> peeling it away but try it.
> 
> When it comes time to reseal the port lights I recommend you contact
> Catalina Direct. They paid a rubber supplier to extrude new silicone
> rubber
> seals and should supply installation instructions. I think it is the
> glass
> to aluminum channel seal. The consensus on the list is to use butyl
> rubber
> tape from an RV supplier to seal  the form to the cabin top. 
> 
> Phil Agur                             s/v Wing Tip
> Commodore,             Call Sign WCW3485
> IC27/270A                   MMSI 366901790 
> www.catalina27.org      Vessel Doc# 1039809
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Goss, Gerhard
> Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 7:56 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: catalina27-talk: windows
> 
> The previous owner of my C27 "sealed" the leaking windows with silicon.
> He smeared silicon over the outside and the inside original seal,
> covering the gel coat, aluminum, rubber and glass with an ugly film.
> (You will agree, sailboats are not supposed to look ugly.) It looks
> dirty and - you all guessed right - it didn't stop the leaking.
> 
> Any words of wisdom how you experienced C27-DIYers would attack this?
> Is there any solvent that would get the silicon off without dissolving
> my C27?
> 
> Gerhard 
> "The Mystic" 
> 1991 #4882
> 
> 


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