Here is what I have done and it has yet to fail no matter how hard I
had to tug.
If both lines are synthetic and most are nowadays (regardless of
variety: poly, X, or whatever): seal both ends with a flame and using
a board and knife blade work the ends while still melted to ensure
that they (the melted ends) are of less diameter than the line
itself. Butt the ends and run (poke thru) a piece of wire (small
diameter such as you should have for attaching shrouds to spreaders)
approximately 1/2 inch from each end. Not too tight - allowing for
flexibility thru sheaves. Wrap one thickness of any kind of tape you
happen to have on hand (I use black electrical) over the splice, but
not too tight. Now you should be able to pull it through just about
anything. Be sure to put a back-pull line on anything of this nature
so you can at least start from scratch again.
Gary on the North Coast
Hi Chris.
Thank you for the suggestion. I'll do it.
However, I suspect butting the ends of the painter and the outhaul
and taping them together is not a good way to connect the two. Are
there any tried and true methods for attaching them to each other?
Since I seem to make things worse before I make them better, I
appreciate any suggestions based on your experience.
Thanks again,
Bob Musson
88 C27 #6508 Std Rig
Piratizer
Selby Bay, MD
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Bob -
Try running a "painter" line through the boom to determine the
length of the line. Basically it is a smaller line that you attach
to the existing outhaul line, pull it through and measure the
existing line, then replace the painter with the new line and pull
it through the opposite way.
That is the way we do our halyards without climbing the mast.
Should work with the boom too.
Chris D
toy box
eastport, md
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