Let me answer that one as a reliability engineer with tons of wire harness experience back in the day.
My preferred connection in a wet location would be an Anchor brand self sealing butt crimp applied with the proper ratchet crimp tool. My bilge connections are unaffected after decade. If all you have in a non-ratchet crimp tool, then don't ever apply a crimp terminal, as the results are totally random and often unreliable. A self sealing crimp has low temp hot glue inside and expanded plastic insulated barrel. Once crimped you heat the plastic like shrink tubing and the glue melts while the insulator shrink sealing the wire insulation to the barrel. Applied with a ratchet crimp tool this is my number one marine connection. My number two connection would be a high grade crimp terminal applied with a proper ratchet crimp tool. Again, if all you have in a non-ratchet crimp tool then don't ever apply a crimp terminal, as the results are totally random and often unreliable. I love Don Casey, he shows everyone how to use the wrong tool and then gives the terminal a little pull so you know it's good. The actual industry test is not "does the terminal stay on the wire". The actual test is a machine pull test that elongates the wire to failure. Don's little jerk isn't even 10% of the force required to test a crimp joint. A properly crimped terminal forms a gas tight seal completely around the conductor. An auto parts store stamped pliers crimper gets the crimp barrel to grip the wire but depending on your hand strength or working angle leaves large voids around the conductor. If you can't crimp right then my third choice is a soldered western union splice covered in liquid electrical tape. The wires bypass and then wrap on each other before being soldered. Since this joint is going to be sealed from oxygen by the solder it will last a long time if you can keep it dry. To protect the joint from condensation running along the wire you should always loop the wire down and away on both sides of the joint. Think of it as a drip edge, the loop is a lower location where condensation will collect and drip rather than run onto your joint. The problem with soldering is the number of folks that think they what it takes for a reliable solder joint and don't. If you can solder and don't know what ionic contamination is then you automatically fall into that category. Phil Agur s/v Wing Tip Secretary/Treasurer Call Sign WCW3485 IC27/270A MMSI 366901790 www.catalina27.org Vessel Doc# 1039809 -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe McCary Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:55 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: NAV lights John, very interesting information. I have a question...why crimp over solder? Back in the dark ages I took an electronics class in HS, we learned just the opposite, that solder joint was best. Is there some nautical reason? Joe McCary Aeolus II #4795 West River, MD [EMAIL PROTECTED] > On Behalf Of John Oppenheimer > > Do not try to seal connections, you almost never can. It's better to > leave connections untaped and no sealant and looped above the wire, so > that they can breath, allowing any moisture to dry. > > No solder, only crimp connections. > > Get a good ratcheting crimp tool!
