It is called a Tinnerman nut and they are available currently according
to a google search
cheers,
Nigel
Nigel Johnson, MSc., MIEEE, MCSE VE3ID/G4AJQ/VA3MCU
Amateur Radio, the origin of the open-source concept!
Skype: TILBURY2591
On 2022-10-12 11:32, Ethan Dicks via cctalk wrote:
On Tue, Oct 11, 2022 at 1:17 PM Vincent Slyngstad via cctalk
<[email protected]> wrote:
On 10/11/2022 10:08 AM, Tony Duell wrote:
On Tue, Oct 11, 2022 at 6:04 PM Vincent Slyngstad via cctalk
<[email protected]> wrote:
Those are the ones. The 3D printed parts are essentially triangular
blocks that mount to the rack and have a drilled and tapped hole for the
recessed Allen screw.
As a 3D Printed part, looks good.
Why on earth would you 3D print something like that? Machining it from
a metal block would be a lot stronger.
Strength isn't the only parameter here. A plastic block is plenty
strong enough unless you routinely pull down on your front panel when
you are standing up.
I _am_ a fan of small machine shops, but even though I have access to
a very nice one at our Makerspace, it doesn't take me that long to
download a part file and press "print".
The DEC part is essentially bent bar stock, with a nut press-fit into
it. Also easy to to do if you have the tooling.
Yep. I have mine right here. My micrometer is elsewhere, but looks
like it's made from 1/8" steel flat stock (with anti-corrosion
plating), and has 3 bends (apex and two ends), a clip-nut for the
machine screw in the cast face, and two mounting holes. Not hard to
make with a mill (or a file) and a break.
The clip nut is 10-32, BTW. I just checked. No more difficult to
source tooling than 6-32
If you made it from metal. you could skip the clip nut and tap the
bracket itself, but if you removed the face often, I could see that
eventually stripping-out.
I know a lot more folks with a 3D printer than I do the folks with metalwork
experience.
Agreed. I know lots of people with 3D Printers that cost $300 USD or
less, and they are much easier to learn to use than learning how to
run a mill (safely). There's absolutely nothing about this part that
you couldn't make on a 10-year-old tiny hobby 3D Printer. It's not
detailed and can easily be made from ABS or PLA (the most common
plastics). If you printed it on its side (with the notch facing
"up"), with unbroken filament going around the perimeter, it would be
a lot stronger than printing it "point up" in layers. Your mounting
holes might be a little more ragged but they are covered up anyway.
I haven't printed Vince's parts but on the surface, they look good.
One possible improvement could be to design in a pocket for a 10-32
nut. There are ways to print parts and pause the printing to install
metal hardware and overprint for retention. It's not a beginner's
technique, and heat-staked inserts are easier to apply, but a captured
nut can be made to float.
-ethan
