I was surfing. I only got one wave- a nice 15' one, but in a crowd of 50 people 
with some of the best surfers on the West Coast, I felt pretty good about that.

When that 20' set wave struck, I had been out for two hours and was paddling 
inside to pick off a smallish wave to the beach so I could go to work. I was 
well inside and well south of the main lineup in an area that would normally be 
totally safe. Then this giant wave came out of nowhere and wiped out the entire 
lineup. 

Fortunately, I was far enough inside that it broke in front of me and I just 
got the 12' foamball on the head instead of the full force of the 20' wave. I 
scrambled back to the surface and caught the next wave in, only to see the 
lifeguard doing loops on the jet ski pullng guys out of the water because so 
many people had lost or broken their boards on that one wave. Totally wild.



>Were you actually surfing, or just watching? It looks way cool.
>
>On 12/22/05, Robert Munn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> This is how I spent my morning yesterday and today:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/8lqkz

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