Big Wednesday comes to mind On 12/23/05, Robert Munn wrote: > I was surfing. I only got one wave- a nice 15' one, but in a crowd of 50 > people with some of the best surfers on the West Coast, I felt pretty good > about that. > > When that 20' set wave struck, I had been out for two hours and was paddling > inside to pick off a smallish wave to the beach so I could go to work. I was > well inside and well south of the main lineup in an area that would normally > be totally safe. Then this giant wave came out of nowhere and wiped out the > entire lineup. > > Fortunately, I was far enough inside that it broke in front of me and I just > got the 12' foamball on the head instead of the full force of the 20' wave. I > scrambled back to the surface and caught the next wave in, only to see the > lifeguard doing loops on the jet ski pullng guys out of the water because so > many people had lost or broken their boards on that one wave. Totally wild. > > >
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