I had a 81 Honda with 150k on it, great mileage, snapped the timing belt
with no warning at 4:00AM on the Capital Beltway, at the Rockville Pike
exit. 

Couldn't justify an upper rebuild (three new valves, valve springs etc.)

Stranded with no cell phone and no street lights.... 

-- 
Scott Stewart
ColdFusion Developer
 
SSTWebworks
4405 Oakshyre Way
Raleigh, NC. 27616
(919) 874-6229 (home)
(703) 220-2835 (cell)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dana [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:42 PM
To: CF-Community
Subject: Re: when to ditch a car?

I agree. One reason I got the new car was that I was driving to Santa Fe
every day. That's 70 miles each way through largely deserted desert, often
late at night. Not something I want to do with an iffy car.

On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 11:24 AM, Scott Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> This makes a lot of sense... but also factor in things like
>
> Time and trouble taking it to the mechanic
> Work time lost w/o a car... or rental while it's being worked on
> The unreliability factor... is it gonna leave me stranded somewhere...
>
> Given my own personal experience.. once the car starts nickel and diming
> me
> to death, I get rid of it. I've lost work time because I don't have the
> equipment/work space to repair, I've been stranded in the middle of no
> where. Etc.
>
> --
> Scott Stewart
> ColdFusion Developer
>
> SSTWebworks
> 4405 Oakshyre Way
> Raleigh, NC. 27616
> (919) 874-6229 (home)
> (703) 220-2835 (cell)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Billy Cox [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:45 PM
> To: CF-Community
> Subject: RE: when to ditch a car?
>
> I know this is the conventional wisdom, but it is based on a faulty
> premise
> - namely that the resale value is the main indicator of your car's value.
> In
> reality, the value of your car is based on it getting you from point 'A'
> to
> point 'B' reliably and safely.
>
> Instead of comparing the cost of the repair to the market value of your
> car,
> you should compare the cost of the repair to what you reasonably expect to
> pay for a newer vehicle in one year.
>
> So if your choices are a $1,000 repair on a $1,500 car or spending $3,600
> (1
> year of car payments at $300/month), it's already a no-brainer that you
> should repair the car, but let's consider other expenses. In one year,
> your
> paid-off (1998) car's value isn't going to go down much, but your newer
> car
> could lose 20-40% of its value. You also have expenses related to buying a
> newer car, tax title and license, as well as insuring the new car.
>
> If one year of repair expenses is comparable to the cost of buying and
> owning a newer car then it makes sense to buy a newer car if only for
> reliability's sake.
>
> The conventional wisdom is really just an excuse buy the new car you
> really
> want before you really need to, and no car dealer is going to tell you
> anything different.
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.6/1404 - Release Date: 4/29/2008
> 6:27 PM
>
>
>
> 



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