I am not saying your way does not work. This is just what I have done in the
past, and it has worked for me. This method does assume that both animals
trust the people holding them and *can* be reassured. I would agree that if
the dog is panicking you do not want to restrain it.

On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 12:22 PM, Mary Jo Sminkey <[email protected]>wrote:

>
> >Then bring the puppy to where the older dog is still being held. On some
> >level the puppy is on the older dog's turf. If the older dog tries to
> leave,
> >hold him, gently, while soothing him. If the puppy tries to become hyper,
> >ditto. Hyperness on the part of the puppy gets mild reproof, but he
> >continues to be held and petted if that keeps him calm. Fear response from
> >the older dog gets reassurance.
>
>
> I personally would be cautious about anything that is really forcing the
> animals together...depending on the dogs, it *can* work...but other times it
> does not have any long-term success. We humans tend to want to rush things
> and see our pets getting along right away....a lot of times it just requires
> patience and letting them get used to each other on their own terms (that
> is, the older dog's terms!) Sometimes just letting a puppy mature can be all
> that is needed.
>
> What would concern me with this approach is not allowing the older dog to
> leave if they want. If you are dealing with a fight-or-flight response, the
> last thing you really want to do is take away the flight possibility. When
> you hear people talk about having a fear biter, this is precisely what
> causes it...removing the ability to flee brings up the fight (fear
> aggression) instead. Of course, a lot of owners will then correct the dog
> for the very natural and understandable reaction and then the animal
> basically goes into what behaviorists called learned helplessness. They
> basically shut down and just don't respond at all. It's really not what you
> want either, as it doesn't really remove the fear, it just controls the
> response.
>
> What makes positive reinforcement so powerful a tool in dealing with fear
> is that the dog chooses for themselves to engage. It's the difference
> between someone that's fearful of water deciding on their own to jump in,
> versus being pushed in by someone else...which do you think is more likely
> to conquer that fear long-term? It's the fact that it is hands-off that
> makes it so effective. The less you have to manipulate the animal
> physically, the faster they learn to control their actions on their own. The
> desire for the click and hearing it triggers such a strong primal reaction
> that can overcome the need to fight or flee. I'm actually doing some work
> with this with my own dog who has a lot of shyness issues. In one session,
> he went from hiding behind the couch when someone was in the room, to
> walking over and touching her hand for a click, whereas in the past, he was
> reluctant to even come near her to take a treat off the floor (let alone
> from her hand!) I started just clicking him for looking at her, then taking
> a step in her direction, and then you could just see the light click on in
> his mind, and he walked right over and touched her hand without my having to
> reward each step of the way. All I had to do was one session prior to that
> to train him to touch my own hand for a click, so he knew what behavior I
> was looking for. The science behind why the clicker works even better than
> just offering a treat by itself is quite interesting, but all one need to
> know is that it WORKS.
>
> If you are interested in positive reinforcement training, the Power of
> Positive Training is a great book for newcomers with basic theory and
> training information. You can pick up clickers these days from most pet
> stores or online supply houses.
>
>
>
> 

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