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In a message dated 11/8/01 9:22:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << I just bought a 70 Chevelle SS with a 350 so I know its not a real one. The only thing that bugs me is that the 350 looks like its been put in there since the block has been painted rebuild chevy orange. I bought it for 2,000 and I am only 16 and its been the car that I always have wanted. It also has the 2-barrel also. I would really appreciate it if someone could help me with some of my questions. The first is where on the body can I find the engine code. I looked on the cowl but its hard to read. Its blue but underneath its red and the paint code is blue. I am also wanted to turn it into a HEI. Any good years to get the distibutor out of? I am low on cash now and I was thinking about just getting one from a junk yard. I also put headers on it and an excuast system. I am also wondering with would be the best carb and intake to put on. In a couple years I plan on it being a 10 second car. Right now I would be happy with 13. The carb and intake are first. After that what type of heads and cam would be good on the 5.7 too. I would really like it if someone could get back to me and give me their input. Thank you >> First I'd like to say congrats on your purchase. I restored a 1970 Chevelle frame off. There is no where on the body that indicates which engine was originally in the car. However, the VIN is stamped on the firewall of the car and on the frame. The only thing this will tell you is if the VIN tag has been switched. The only thing the VIN will tell you is if it was a 6 cyl or 8 cyl car. The cowl tag only tells, same info as VIN, but includes interior trim, paint code, build date. The problem with 69-72 Chevelles is that there is absolutely no way to tell if it is a real SS or not unless you have the build sheet Any HEI distributor from 1974-1980 car or truck will work just fine, however, you will need to replace the ballast wires that lead to the points style coil in the engine harness with the typical HEI power wire. A good intake/carb combo would be the Edlebrock Performer RPM and a Holley 1850 (650 cfm vac. secondaries). I did build up a 350 to put in my Cutlass. The stock heads work just fine, and even better if you port em out a little :). Your cam should be matched to your torque converter if it's an automatic. Also with cam selection, selct one that will give you enough vacuum for your brakes to work, a high lift cam = less vacuum = less stopping power, this is assuming it has power brakes of course. let's simply say this about wanting a 10 sec car. It's not cheap. I spent a little under $5000 to build a 454 that runs 12.2's. You have to be realistic in what you want to do with this car. Is it going to be a full blown race car, or a street machine. I personally feel that 12's is just fine for a street machine. A race car is way more involved. I am yet to see a 10 sec car that isn't tubbed, at least around here anyways. That means chassis mods, shortened axles maybe. The best way I found was to do research on the car and what it is going to cost you. Best bet is to talk to your local speed shop. I got my 70 when I was 17, I am now 21, I was hell bent on having it in the 10's until I found out what is actually involved. So I changed my decision of what I wanted. My 70 is now a show car with a very healthy big block, built up TH400, 12 Bolt Posi, complete polyurethane suspension kit, with new TRW springs, stainless fuel and brake lines, disc brake converstion, etc. Hope some of this helps. Tom ----------------------------------------------------- To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
