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Tom,
  I have been wanting to put a 454 in my car when I get to that stage in
the restoration.  I was just wanting to know what hp/torq ratings you
got from spending around $5000.  Just to kinda get a concept of money to
hp/torq.
Thanks
Michael

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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2001 9:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] I got a 70 Chevelle


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In a message dated 11/8/01 9:22:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< I just bought a 70 Chevelle SS with a 350 so I know its not a real
one.
The only thing that bugs me is that the 350 looks like its been put in
there
since the block has been painted rebuild chevy orange.  I bought it for
2,000
and I am only 16 and its been the car that I always have wanted.  It
also has
the 2-barrel also.  I would really appreciate it if someone could help
me
with some of my questions.  The first is where on the body can I find
the
engine code.  I looked on the cowl but its hard to read.  Its blue but
underneath its red and the paint code is blue. I am also wanted to turn
it
into a HEI.  Any good years to get the distibutor out of?  I am low on
cash
now and I was thinking about just getting one from a junk yard.  I also
put
headers on it and an excuast system.  I am also wondering with would be
the
best carb and intake to put on. In a couple years I plan on it being a
10
second car.  Right now I would be happy with 13.  The carb and intake
are
first.  After that what type of heads and cam would be good on the 5.7
too.
I would really like it if someone could get back to me and give me their
input.  Thank you >>

First I'd like to say congrats on your purchase.
I restored a 1970 Chevelle frame off.  There is no where on the body
that
indicates which engine was originally in the car.  However, the VIN is
stamped on the firewall of the car and on the frame.  The only thing
this
will tell you is if the VIN tag has been switched.  The only thing the
VIN
will tell you is if it was a 6 cyl or 8 cyl car.  The cowl tag only
tells,
same info as VIN, but includes interior trim, paint code, build date.
The
problem with 69-72 Chevelles is that there is absolutely no way to tell
if it
is a real SS or not unless you have the build sheet
Any HEI distributor from 1974-1980 car or truck will work just fine,
however,
you will need to replace the ballast wires that lead to the points style
coil
in the engine harness with the typical HEI power wire.  A good
intake/carb
combo would be the Edlebrock Performer RPM and a Holley 1850 (650 cfm
vac.
secondaries).  I did build up a 350 to put in my Cutlass.  The stock
heads
work just fine, and even better if you port em out a little :).  Your
cam
should be matched to your torque converter if it's an automatic.  Also
with
cam selection, selct one that will give you enough vacuum for your
brakes to
work, a high lift cam = less vacuum = less stopping power, this is
assuming
it has power brakes of course.
let's simply say this about wanting a 10 sec car.  It's not cheap.  I
spent a
little under $5000 to build a 454 that runs 12.2's.  You have to be
realistic
in what you want to do with this car.  Is it going to be a full blown
race
car, or a street machine.  I personally feel that 12's is just fine for
a
street machine.  A race car is way more involved.  I am yet to see a 10
sec
car that isn't tubbed, at least around here anyways.  That means chassis
mods, shortened axles maybe.  The best way I found was to do research on
the
car and what it is going to cost you.  Best bet is to talk to your local
speed shop.
I got my 70 when I was 17, I am now 21, I was hell bent on having it in
the
10's until I found out what is actually involved.  So I changed my
decision
of what I wanted.
My 70 is now a show car with a very healthy big block, built up TH400,
12
Bolt Posi, complete polyurethane suspension kit, with new TRW springs,
stainless fuel and brake lines, disc brake converstion, etc.
Hope some of this helps.

Tom

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