RE: [Chevelle-List] Kill Switch

[396guy]

Keith,   I ran a aircraft style (with safety cover) switch between the pump's hot lead and the ignition switch or it can run to the fuse box (or junction block) and instead of being hot when the key is turned on, it's only hot when the switch is on.  There is usually enough gas in the carburetor and fuel line to start the car and run for a couple of minutes before it runs dry and appears to be out of gas.  The physical placement of the pump itself depends on if it is a push type pump or a pull type pump.  I'd be leery of putting an electrical fuel pump under the hood as you'd probably have to do if it's after the mechanical pump.   As a side note, the electric pump was also handy when I needed emergency gas for the lawn mower...no more sucking a hose. :*)   Dale -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Keith Cooper Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 6:46 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Kill Switch Dale,  I am confused. Didn't you cut off the electricity to your electric fuel pump by cutting power to the hot lead??? Since I do not have an electric fuel pump, what should I do to prevent the car from being started or driven more than a few blocks? I could cut off the fuel line, but I would have to put the cutoff somewhere outside (small hassle) and where does one get a key fuel cutoff valve?? Or what would happen if I put an electric fuel pump after the manual fuel pump?? I am just not interested in converting my fuel system right now. I have spend two years of my life,every weekend, everyday off and everyday since July(I am a dislocated worker.) working on completion of my car. It has worn me out.  Putting an electric pump after the manual could be done quick. Again, Thanks for you help. I allow look forward to seeing yours and everyone replies. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: 396guy To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 12:37 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Kill Switch I've always run electric fuel pumps and simply put a toggle switch in line with the hot lead.  It's saved one car.  Driver got about 2 blocks before it ran out of gas and he/she abandoned it.  Personally, I'd hesitate to put any switch that simply cuts off electricity; it may pi$$ them off and they tear something else up trying to get it started.  Of course it depends if it's a professional thief or a joy rider.   Cute/sad story:  A guy was at some event and took the rotor out of his distributor to foil thieves.  Returns after event - car gone.  While reporting it to the police, another guy shows up to complain that someone stole the rotor out of his distributor!  Can't win. Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Keith Cooper Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 6:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Kill Switch If you put a kill switch on a car, what would you kill?? You could kill the starter wire. You could kill the coil wire. You could kill the wires at the neutral safety switch on the steering column or an ignition wire. Should you kill a wire in the engine compartment or inside the car.  If you kill the starter wire,the wire is already a 10 or 12 gauge wire, would you have to go to a 10 or 8 gauge wire to prevent problem because of the length you would add?? The same for the positive coil wire, would you run into problems because of the extra length you added for the kill switch? I am going to put a kill switch on, but I have been thinking about problems I could have. I will then have to decide where to put a switch so it is not easy to find, but easy to use. Any input??? I know that the subject has been talked about before, but I never seen anyone talk about problems because of length and wire size.   See my Chevelle: http://home.mindspring.com/~keithc/index.html