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I am NOT an expert in this area, but know a little. Correct me if I
screw up guys, but here's how I would troubleshoot this:
1. Make sure all fuses are good.
2. Remove all wires at the solenoid and inspect. I think there is a good
chance you will find the problem right here in one form or another. Probably
a broken wire or bad connection in a terminal. Possibly just a bad/dirty
connection. Possibly the solenoid broken or loose connections inside it.
3. In most Chevys there is a wire that connects to the same terminal that
the positive battery cable connects to. This carries the positive voltage to
the eletrical system. If this wire is broke almost nothing will happen. Use
an ohm meter to test from the wire that goes from the solenoid to whevever
it connects at (after you disconnect it from the solenoid). You may need an
experienced person here or a wiring guide to tell you where that is, but
ultimately it will get to the starter switch.
4. Remove the fuse block and look in the back. I think I remember some bad
stuff going on for one problem I had in back where the wires connect in.
5. Make sure the ground connection from the battery to the block is clean.
Wire brush it even if it looks good, then tighten well by putting a nut on
the other side of the mount to tighten the bolt to since it's stripped.
6. Use a wire brush ( preferably round battery terminal cleaner) and clean
the battery cables. If the cables are cheap ones or appear to have corrsion
inside the insulation on the wires ( usually a green color ) replace them
with good heavy duty ones. Use Baking soda to help clean acid away from
battery terminals and anyplace that is corroded. Tighten battery terminals
well. If you can't, replace the terminals.
I have seen people (Japanese mechanics) use grease on major electrical
connections to prevent corrosion. While the trained electronics guy in me
said "no way! clean connections only!" I guess there are some metalurgy
electrolisis stuff going on that can prevent good electrical connections in
many cases after a while.
Also, I have seen some batteries that measure 12 volts on a meter, but the
second you put any kind of load on them they go to hell. A modern meter puts
very little load on a battery and is not a good test. Have the battery
tested if all else fails.
Good luck!
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Raj R.
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 6:34 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Car's electrical system is 100% dead.. Any
ideas?
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
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Hey guys, my 71 SS is rather tempermental when it comes to electrical stuff
but its never been this bad.. Even with a brand new battery and newly
stripped-back-and-re-attached battery cables I get zero electrical.. No
headlights, emergency flashers, or anything.. The fusible link between the
body and the negative battery cable is good.. The negative battery cable's
mount to the alternator bracket is a little loose (stripped out threads, it
appears) but it is receiving metal/metal contact.. The battery definately
has charge.. The only thing that preceeded this is a starter that clicked
instead of turning over every few times.. One click (not multiple as when
you're running out of juice).. I was told this is probably a corroded
(negative?) cable somewhere in the starter circuit.. Well, aside from that I
have an open circuit in my steering column which tends to click the horn
relay.. Well, after 2-3 days my car will be completely dead.. i think I just
need to disconnect the horn relay since the car's horns don't work anyway..
If the starter cable(s) is/are corroded would that take out the whole rest
of my electrical system? It seems strange that I have no electrical at all..
I mean, not even emergency flashers..
Any help is greatly appreciated..
Raj
...gremlin infested 71 Chevelle SS (L48 350, TH-350, 12 bolt auburn posi
3.31's, tach & guages package, buckets, rear defroster) :)
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