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If this is a daily driver and will not be used for
racing, I think that you have over camed the car. This does not mean that it
will not run, but you might not like it. I believe you could step down 2 cam
sizes myself. This looks like it might be a Comp. Cam is it? Let's assume
that this is a daily driver or show car only, you need to get a cam that is
designed for 2000-5500 RPM range. This would mean that you need to look at
something around 220 duration at .050 with about 515 lift. Let me give you an
example. I had a cam that was 210/216 @.050 with .499/515 lift (1.5 Rocker) on
108 c/l for a small block 350. I now have a cam that is 204/204 @.050 with
484/484 lift on 110 C/l. The car has the stock rear end which when I checked it
is 2.50. I do not think that they had a 2.5 rear end on a 1971 Chevelle/Malibu
so it is most likely a 2.73 rear end (Highway gear) The first cam run good but
was very slow on take off and lost power between 35-45 MPH. It sounded really
good on the 108 C/L and still had good vacuum. The second cam had good power at
takeoff and all the way through the RPMs. It just burns the tire ups when you
nail it. The first cam would not spin the tire too much. The reason the second
cam worked better is the car has the small rear end ratio. I also had an
Edelbrock performance intake which is designed for the lower RPM range. The
first cam was in a .040 over motor and the second cam is in a stock motor. If it
is too late to change camshafts, you can try this. When they do the head work,
ask them to make sure the you will have clearance if you decide to change to 1.6
rockers later. By putting in 1.6 rocker, you will drop both your duration and
lift down. This will move your power range down lower. If it was me I would look
at a cam that was around 216-228 range with about 510-530 lift with 110-114 C/l
Something else I do not understand, what do you
mean waiting to hear from them before ordering the correct
lifters. If this is a roller cam then their is only one
type of lifter you want, Hyd. roller lifters. If this is a Hyd Flat tappet cam
then you want standard Hyd lifter. I would not get into using anti-pump, or any
of the other weird hyd. lifters on the market. Stick to the basic. If you
are now confused or you are worried about my advise, call Crane or Comp Cams and
talk to someone on the tech line. You will know after 5 minutes on the phone,
what your cam selection should be. I live in Daytona where Crane is, I will call
them if you want me to.
Another thing that I am concerned about is
that the head work must be compatible with the camshaft. The springs must work
correctly with the lift of the cam. Most head shop want to know what cam is
being installed. You must check for coil bind on the springs. You must check
Rocker to Spring binding for the camshaft you are using. The spring pressure for
the cam lift must be know or you will be putting too much pressure on the
nose of the camshaft. You also need to check for pushrod binding. All these are
related to the camshaft being used.
Some facts about camshafts. Duration at .050 will
tell you where the power range will be. Lower duration will usually have lower
pulling ranges. Lift tells you how much air and gas you will have, which gives
you more power. C/L will tell idle features. Also c/l will effect the power
range. Tighter centerlines will pull more at lower RPM and idle rougher. Tighter
C/L (106 versus 110) will also run hotter. C/L will also effect valve
overlap(the amount of time when both valves are open). If you know the duration
at special which is usually around .004-.010 subtract that value from .050. This
is call the Hyd intensity. The lower the number the better performance. For mild
street performance, lower duration values at .050 are better. Crane cam usually
have a lower Hyd. intensity value over Comp. Cams. The cam spec. are directly
related to the rear end ratio and must work together.
Keith C. Cooper
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 9:39 AM
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