At 09:59 AM 09/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:

You could tell a lot buying a compression tester (about $10.00)
& do the check yourself, its very easy.


>1. Compression Check - Find out what the factory spec is from compression.
>Run a compression check and your engine should not be more that about 5
>percent from that spec.
>
>2. Leak Down Test - This will help to determine wear in the valve train,
>ie., worn valve guides, valve stems, seats, etc.
>
>3. Remove the Valve Covers - An engine that has been properly rebuilt with
>10k miles on it should have almost no varnish on the heads, rockers, valves,
>and springs.
>
>4. Check Main Bearings - Remove the oil pan and remove one or two the main
>caps and inspect the bearings. With 10k miles on the engine there should
>almost no noticeable wear other then some of the coating wearing off. If
>there is a lot of copper showing, deep grooves, or burn marks the engine is
>wearing.
>
>He then tells me that it is a two person job and they both get $50 per 
>hour and it should take 6 hours. My questions are this:
>
>1. Should all the tests/things the mechanics recommend be done? Are they 
>all necessary? Is there a better way to determine?
>2. Is 6 hours, two guys and $600 reasonable?
>
>Thanks for your help guys,
>
>
>--
>Jeff Fischer
>Lake Elmo, MN
>'71 Chevelle SS, 454, 4 spd
>http://home.attbi.com/~addss/chevelle.html
>
>
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