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My friend and I just put the GV-18 from Centech in
my car. When I was researching I found out that the GV-18 wires are bought
from M&H, so it's the same quality of wires as the $800 harness from
M&H. I won't lie, I chose Centech because the price was significantly
lower than M&H, and I felt safe in that i was getting the same quality of
wires. I also didn't mind the blade type fuses because my car is modified
already anyways.
As for the connectors and extras you may
need. It would be wise to go to www.madelectrical.com and buy some 56F
and 56M connectors. These are the connectors used inside the plastic
connectors such as in the trunk where the rear lights harness connects to the
wires run under the carpet from the fuse panel. They are used in (if I
remember correctly) all of the plastic type connectors. I had never worked
with them before, but they're a piece of cake to use. You just stick a
small flat screwdriver in the plastic connector, which releases the "lip" and
you pull the wire and 56F (or M) connector from the plastilc connector.
Then take your new wire, solder and crimp a new 56F (or M, whichever is
appropriate) and slide the connector and wire back into the plastic connector
and it snaps in place.
So basically, if the PLASTIC parts of your
current wiring are intact, Centech is a good way to go. If you're missing
plastic connectors or they're just too brittle to reuse, M&H or some other
original harness might be a better choice.
I'd also buy plenty of heat shrink and an extra
role of solder would be good too.
I have my battery mounted in the trunk so I bought
some 8 gauge wire from them to run from the F$rd solonoid in the trunk to the
engine compartment area. FYI, 8 gague round terminals are HARD to find in
town. That might be something you want to order also if you know ahead of
time you'll need them. I ended up finding them at a mom and pop hardware
store.
I also bought the connection block http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml from
MAD. It's a nice little gadget.
Probably the thing to be most aware of is that when
working with the dash stuff, the plastic is 30+ yrs. old and it's very
brittle. I broke the idiot light connector while trying to get it out of
the dash (what a PITA). I was lucky enough to have a spare dash and
harness in storage, which saved my butt, so I clipped that one off and used
it.
There were a few things I didn't redo
completely. I left the rear light harness intact. The wires hadn't
been hacked up and they looked to be in good shape still. I did
replace the wires from fuse panel that ran under the carpet and into the
trunk. I figured if at a later time I wanted to replace the rear harness
it'd be easier just to buy a correct rear harness by itself and plug it
in. For the idiot lights, I just chopped off the wires and left
about 3 in. on each wire and spliced them with the new wire. I did the
same with the front blinker/parking lights. Centech actually provided the
connectors for the headlights. They used the 56F connectors.
Another helpful hint is, if you're going to run a
CS alternator let them know that when you order, otherwise it comes with
instructions and provisions for an SI alternator.
I have Vintage Air, so those wires remained intact
I just had to provide power to it.
I had to hurry up at the end and get my car back on
the road (daily driver), so I currently have 2 problems. The fuel gague
goes crazy once I get down to 1/4 of a tank left and also the radio isn't
working. I'm pretty sure both are because of a ground issue, I just
haven't had time to trace it down yet.
I can't tell you how COOL it is to have new
wiring. Everything is bright and doesn't flicker or do anything weird
(besides the gas gauge ;) )
This upgrade ranks right up there with the GW 12"
1LE front disks :)
I hope this info helps someone else out. If
you have questions, let me know and I'll try to help.
Rodney.
71 Chevelle
El Mirage, AZ
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