Just to follow up on the thread.

I found the problem with start-up after the engine mods on my '71 350
Malibu.

I mis-wired #6 and #8 (switched). Runs great now.

For those interested in what I experienced in tuning the Edelbrock 1405
carb, read-on.

The setup in the car is now:

Edelbrock 2701 intake
Edelbrock 1405 carb
Non-stock cam, but doesn't appear too radical
Sanderson headers
Flowmaster exhaust, 50 series mufflers

I installed an O2 sensor to help with tuning, read with a voltmeter. I'm
using the "timed" advanced port, on the left as you face the front of the
carb.

Out of the box, the O2 sensor read rich (>900mv) during both cruise and
power operation. I recalibrated two stages leaner in power, and two stanges
leaner in cruise. The O2 sensor still read rich during power (>800 mv), but
cruise read lean (<.100 mv). At first I thought the O2 sensor was reading
wrong, but there was some hesitation at certain speeds, so I figured it must
be lean. I then went 1 stage richer in cruise. The O2 sensor read between
600mv and 900mv; still a little rich, but not bad. The power operation was
still rich, but with the 1479 calibration kit, I can't lean it out any more.
But the car runs great; no hesitation anywhere, so I'm leaving it there for
now. I'm hoping an ignition upgrade will lean it out a little more.

Conclusions:

The O2 sensor was a big help in dialing in the carb quickly. Getting an
ideal A/F mixture of 14.7 (~500 mv) is very hard; it lies between two stages
in the Edelbrock calibration in my setup. The Flowmasters sound nice; quiet
when you are off the gas, and not too loud when you tromp on it. My only
complaint is that there is a resonance at 3000 RPM that is too loud for me,
especially since that's the RPM thats around 55mph. But it great to have it
back on the road after a long winter.

Tom Tomlinson

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bill Vander Werf
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 9:43 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Rich Edelbrock Carb


Tom,
I would separate 5 and 7 by running the #3 wire between them and then
angle the ends away from each other at slight angles to separate them at
the distributor cap. I'm afraid it's not as pretty a setup but if
crossfire is a problem it will solve it.

As far as the distributor being a tooth off; I'm a weirdo about that
kind of stuff and would fix it. However, if you can set the timing where
it needs to be the way it is it isn't necessary to change it.

Bill Vander Werf


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Tomlinson
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 7:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Rich Edelbrock Carb

Wow, learn something new everyday.

Now that I've read up on this cross-fire problem, it could very well be
my
problem. I'll look into the cap as well as separate the wires better.

Also, did anyone who looked at the close-up picture of my engine wiring
see
anything funny about the distributor? After I cut the wires, I noticed
that
my vacuum advance horn was pointing toward the front of the car, not the
#4
cylinder like most small blocks. The previous owner put the distributor
in
one cylinder off. It runs ok, but the vacuum advance horn is shoved up
against one of the manifold runners, making it a tight fit. The more I
go
through this car, the more "odd things" I find about the engine set up.
Of
course if I try to set the distributor to the usual location, some of
the
plug wires will be a little off.

Oh well, live and learn.

Tom

>
>
> > Bill:
> > The car is not nearby, but the pictures I took of the engine show
that
#5
> > and #7 are close to each other in the wire loom, then cross near the
cap.
> > How far apart should they be? Would the spacing of a typical wire
loom
be
> > enough, or should there be at least a wire in between?
> >
> > If you want to see a picture of the set up you can go to:
> >
> > http://www.eagleshore.com/bear/engine-left-close.jpg
> >
> > Tom



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