In a message dated 8/23/03 6:04:54 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I'm having some trouble coming up with tools and supplies to do this job.  Nobody has an inch/pound torque wrench or a dial indicator around here.  I got the pinion seal and a new universal joint (since the drive shaft is down anyway), but nobody seems to have the rear cover gasket.  Pep Boys says there are 7 in Indiana and 13 in Texas.  That seems kind of strange because I didn't think 12 bolt rears were that rare.....Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 8:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem


In a message dated 8/22/2003 10:49:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

will need to purchase a dial indicator.  If it doesn't come with instructions (like most tools), how do I measure the backlash.  Additionally, how do I change the readings- adjust the backlash if the end result does not equal the initial backlash?  On a side note, will I need to remove the 12 bolt cover in back for any reason?  Bear with me....your instructions will probably seem more simple after I get a good look at the nut and pinion.  I'm not going to take the driveshaft down until after dinner.  I'm still cleaning the mess away.  Thanks for your help.  Have you done many of these?  Sounds like you have been down this road once or twice.
Steve

I've done a few rears.  I would pull the back cover off to drain the oil, put a new gasket on it, and put some fresh 90 weight in it.  The dial indicator will come with directions.  It's very difficult to explain how to set it up and measure it without physically showing you, so just read the directions carefully. 
You will not have to do anything internally to the rear.  If all goes as it should and you crank on the yoke nut, you won't need to do any adjusting. 
The backlash is controlled by 2 factors, the postion of the differential itself, and the depth of the pinion.  There are shims inside on the pinion between the inner bearing and the pinion head which you won't even see.  There is also a crush collar in there, another thing you won't see,which takes up the slack so there is no play in the pinion. 
As long as there is no play in it when you are done, it will be just where it was before you started the job. 

Good luck,

Tom




I have a torque wrench & I'm in Arlington. You can borrow it if ya want. As for the differential gasket. You  don't need one!
Just clean both surfaces real good, wipe down with alcohol, get some orange high temp silicone (a small tube will do the trick), lay a bead on the cover about 1/8 inch high, mount the cover tighten the screws and you've got the best seal you could ever have.
I done this many times, differentials, valve covers, auto trans pans. Never had a leak. Not like the original gaskets that get hard and shrink.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Let me know if ya want to borrow the wrench. I also have an indicator.
Dan
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