Steve, It has tapered bearings. Once you removed the yoke, it will move as the bearings are no longer seated. The wear you are describing on the yoke may be a problem. Depending on how much of a groove you have. You may want to show this to a mechanic and ask for an opinion on possible replacement. Mike Holleman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Lentz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 5:23 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload.
> Thanks everybody, > I marked the nut and the end of the pinion shaft and removed the nut. The > yoke assembly came of relatively easy with just a little wiggling. I > started to work around the old seal to get it off and wiggled the pinion > shaft a little out of curiosity. It wiggled about a 1/4 inch in all > directions. I thought that it probably shouldn't wiggle at all because of > the bearings still inside the rear. Do I have problems here? I looked at > the inside of the yoke assembly that I removed and noticed that there was a > thin groove cut around the diameter of the rearmost cylinder in the yoke > assembly (in from the spline section that mates to the matching grooves in > the pinion. I have a bad feeling this thing might need bearings or > something worse. Should there be play on the pinion shaft when the yoke is > removed? I don't think it wiggled at all when the yoke was still bolted on. > Steve > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Trooper > Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 6:09 AM > To: The Chevelle Mailing List > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload. > > > I know I'm coming into this late and you may already have the job done. I > agree with Dave's method of seal replacement. The only thing he forgot is, > before you put the washer and nut back on, fill the area under the washer > (around the pinion and yoke interface) with RTV to seal it. Otherwise you > will have a little leak there. You don't need to measure backlash. This is > controlled by the pinion and carrier shims which you will not be touching. > The only thing you need to worry about is getting the correct preload. If > you line your marks up you will be very close. If you want to get more > technical. Get a inch pound torque wrench and place it on the pinion nut > prior to disassembly and turn the pinion. measure the resistance in inch > pounds. Do the removal and repair and put the nut back on. As you tighten > the nut check the preload with the torque wrench often. When you get back to > the torque measurement you had at the start, your done. > > Goo > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave Corgill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:24 AM > Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] rear end problem preload. > > > > At 07:13 PM 08/22/2003 -0700, you wrote: > > >This is Steve.....OK...what do you mean when you mentioned the preload on > > >the pinion? I have a Sears impact gun, just like the one my dad uses on > > >his tractor and trailer, so that sheould be OK. I have the rear jacked > up > > >(using ramps on the back side and blocking the front) and am in the > > >process of cleaning the gunk off the housing....Gee, the rear is only 3/4 > > >of the size it was dirty ;-) > > >I haven't taken anything apart yet....I'm waiting for it to cool down > some > > >(still over 100 degrees outside) before I unhook the driveshaft from the > > >rear yoke (going to tape up the universal in the process and probably > > >replace anyway) and then figure out the yoke. I only have simple tools > > >and a seal puller....somewhere. I wiggled the driveshaft/yoke pretty > hard > > >in all directions and there was no play. I will try the yoke again after > > >I unhook the driveshaft. How do I remove the Yoke with this > > >"preload"? Is it pressed on too? > > > > > >Thanks for all the responses, > > >Steve > > > > 1 remove driveshaft from yoke > > > > 2 take a sharp chisel and hammer, and make a good mark on the pinion and > the > > pinion nut. So you know how they line up. Turn the pinion by hand > > and check for slop. You will need to know what it feels like > > for step 7 and up. > > > > 3 remove the nut (I use an impact wrench so it's easy to hold) > > > > 4 gently tap the yoke away from the axle. Do not hammer the pinion in! > You > > could damage it or the bearings. > > > > 5(optional) I suggest you replace the pinion seal while you have it apart > > because they tend to leak often. They are just cheap insurance. Make sure > > you put some oil on the lip for lubrication. > > > > 6 work the new yoke on to the pinion until you can get the nut started. > > Some people (mostly who sell the parts) say you should get a new > nut > > because it's a lock nut that works the best only once. I > > usuallyreuse the old one. In either case, make sure you use RED > > threadlocker, not blue, because it's stronger. > > > > 7 Take note of how easy it is to spin the yoke by hand, and how much slop > > (usually only a little bit) there is in the bearings. Slowly tighten > up > > the nut until you hit the mark you made in step 2. > > > > 8 If there is still slop and no change in the ease of turning, tighten one > > width of the chisel mark past. > > > > 9 If there is still no change, make one full turn back to the mark and one > > chisel mark width past. > > > > repeat step 9 until the slop is gone and it gets harder to turn again like > > it did in step 2. > > > > IMPORTANT! If you go too far, DO NOT LOOSEN. If you have gone a lot too > > far, (more than 1/8 turn) you will have to remove the axles, carrier, and > > pinion to replace the crush sleeve. This should only be done by > experienced > > axle people because several measurements must be made to determine the > > rotating torque and nut position, etc. > > > > 10 put the driveshaft back on > > > > It should be fairly easy to tell when you have gone enough turns to take > up > > the slop. It will be cut and dry either slop or no slop. All the play > will > > be taken up in the last 1/16th of a turn on the last revolution of the > nut, > > so it is hard to be off by a whole turn. After you do this once, you will > > get a better feel for it. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Chevelle-list mailing list > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Chevelle-list mailing list > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net _______________________________________________ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
