RE: [Chevelle-list] Drive train parts

[Tom and Sue Tomlinson]

Thanks Mike; this helps alot. I had a feeling you might respond since we have been in communication on the transmission recently. I don't have the starter yet, and forgot to look at the mounting bolts, but it probably is the straight version. I also need to check to see if the pilot bearing is there.

 

I thought the Tremec came in a 10 and 26 spline version? I assume the 26 spline version is better.

 

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Michael Pell
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 7:34 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Drive train parts

Wow, no one else is answering (or did I miss them?), so I'll take a stab.

In a stock application, I recommend sticking with a stock weight cast/steel flywheel.  A billet steel flywheel is even better, although a bit more money.
153 vs 168 tooth is mandated by which starter bolt pattern you have.  Generally speaking, small blocks (sbc) have a 153 tooth, and big blocks (bbc)
have a 168.  Some sbc have both patterns.  If the starter bolts are straight across, you have a 153 tooth.  If diagonal, you have a 168 tooth flywheel.

For the flywheel bolts, there is a special bolt with a star washer that you use.  For the clutch to flywheel bolts, they are common 3/8" course thread
bolts, use Grade 8.

Both Centerforce and McLeod/Weber are great aftermarket clutches.  Hayes is pretty good also.  I like the Dual Friction models from both
Centerforce and Weber.

A 10.5" clutch is plenty for most any sbc, and works fine for most bbc also.  The clutch to flywheel bolt pattern is different for the 10.5 and 11"
clutches, so your flywheel must also have the correct bolt pattern for the clutch.

The # of splines for the clutch disc is determined by the # of splines on the input shaft of the trans.  The TREMEC 5sp has 26 splines (fine spline
input).

The 10.5" clutch/flywheel will definately fit into your stock bellhousing.  The 11" might, if you have the correct bellhousing for an 11" clutch (not likely).

If you upgrade to a steel bellhousing (scattershield, I highly recommend it), then the 11" would also fit just fine.

Here's a TREMEC 5sp vs Richmond 5sp comparison for you since you're looking at both:
http://www.5speedTransmissions.com/5sp_comparison.html

And here's some swap details: http://www.5speedTransmissions.com/3550_66-7_gm_a-body.html
You will definately need to do some major tunnel modifications to get the TREMEC to fit, and if you have a console, you'll want the custom 2" offset
shifter.

Hope that helps!
Mike

Tom and Sue Tomlinson wrote:

 The 66 elky I just bought needs some drive train parts that I'm not familiar with specing/purchasing, so I'm looking for some guidance.The motor is a 355ci, 410HP (according to the previous owner/builder) 4 bolt main engine from a '70 Camaro. It has never been installed in the car, and needs a flywheel and clutch, which will probably be driving a Tremec 5 speed (still looking into the Richmond vs Tremec, but I'm leaning toward the Tremec). The rear-end is a 3.42 posi. I may be looking at nitrous in the future. I assume the flywheel and clutch from the original 327 that the previous owner threw in are not up to the task.I've been told steel is better than aluminum for the flywheel. What about the number of teeth (153 vs 168). What type of bolts should I use? Red threadlocker?I've been told Centerforce makes a good clutch. How about the number of splines (10 vs 26) and size (10" vs 11"). Does the flywheel have to be sized for the clutch, or will a 10" or 11" clutch fit on the same flywheel? Will it fit in the stock bell housing?Is there a good reference for reading up on these issues?Thanks for putting up with all the newbie questions.Tom Tomlinson

--
  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
  TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
  Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
  Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6