Thanks Dave and Brad for the replies ...
I just ordered online the Hotchkis Upper control arms, so I am going to go
with B-Body Spindles ... Any model/year to go after, or a range of years to
look for?

-Graham


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Studly
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 10:17 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Which way of lowering is better?


When I re-did my suspension and brakes in 2001 on my '70 Chevelle, the total
cost turned out to be around $1500, if I remember correctly.  I converted
from drum brakes to discs, using Hotchkis A-arms, Hotchkis springs (all 4
corners), Hotchkis tie-rod sleeves, eBay'd a 1.25" F-body sway bar, and used
GM 12" brakes.  I got the spindles from the boneyard and bought the rest of
the parts new at the parts store (rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, caliper
bolts, etc), and new Energy Suspension poly-bushings.

The handling improvement is quite dramatic.  The Hotchkis springs also
lowered the car a bit, at least 1, maybe 2 inches.  I had a stock '72 El
Camino at the time I did the swap and the differences between the stock
setup and the Hotchkis are night & day.  If you live in a place with a lot
of rough roads, the stiff Hotchkis springs might get a little annoying.  I
*love* the handling of my car, but the rough ride is occasionally
irritating.  However, freeway on/off ramps have never been so fun!

I don't know of anyone who has used lowering spindles, but I'd be interested
in comparing the two, as the more compliant stock springs might be nicer if
the car is mainly a cruiser.  I like to push my car, so I'm willing to
tolerate the stiff springs.

-Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brad Waller
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 12:10 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Which way of lowering is better?


You can do the suspension piecemeal.  I did the spindles first, then the A
arms and springs a few years later, then the shocks and sway bar last.  Cost
is about the same if you get the 12" brake over the 11" F-body swap that I
did (there was no 12" factory parts when I did mine), so you may as well go
for the larger rotors.  Or, you could go really big and use an aftermarket
kit.

I can be expensive, but if you can budget it out and make a plan, then it
can be affordable.

        -Brad-

On Sep 30, 2004, at 7:42 PM, Graham Wooden wrote:

> Thanks Tim; I think those two systems would be great to have - to 
> achieve the updated ride and handling that I am looking for.
> Now it's time to figure out how much $$$ I have to put towards this; I
> also
> been trying to figure out ultimately what brake system (kit or
> individual
> pieces) to use as well.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> -Graham
>
> On 9/30/04 9:00 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" 
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
>> Graham,
>>
>> Personally, I would do the Global West/Hotchkis system, so that gives 
>> you the great ride, but do the drop spindles. It really doesnt effect 
>> the geometry of
>> the suspension. I did the drop spindles when I did the disc
>> brakes...although
>> I only had that set up for about a 15 mile drive before I went and
>> had the
>> whole thing air bagged. So technically, the front of mine is dropped
>> about 7-8
>> inches haha. But I can adjust it to whatever I want. Take care-
>>
>> Tim
>> 66' Chevelle





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