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Yea – I was wondering the same
thing. It was probably an intermittent problem because I saw the carb
feeding on both sides on occasion. However – when I thought I had
it fixed, it would act up again. The mechanic saw that there was fuel “dripping”
from the carb into the intake only on one side, so he thought something was
clogged inside, which would be causing the lean condition. I can’t
argue – the car runs great now. Two days later and it starts easily,
drives great, and will actually idle at about 800 RPM at a red light when in
gear – and it never did that! Probably a combination of my bad carb
tuning skills and a carb that was not cooperative. He checked everything
out, and said everything was running perfect – and I agree.
Whatever happened – now I get to find a good body shop in town for some
of the more difficult body work. Another thing – I have a new set of
torque rods for the trunk (trunk springs) and need a special tool to install
them. Does anyone have the tool used to put these in (fisher body tool #
J-21412) or a design of a simple tool I can fab up to get these things in easily
(see page 8-8 in your fisher body service manual)? I have a sketch of
what I think would work – but would prefer to use the right tool in order
to save myself the hassle of fabbing up a tool I will only use once. I
will gladly pay for shipping to and from Cheers- T.J. Ringlein, 72 Chevelle, in shambles US Air Force – 10 years active next month From: Rick Schaefer
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Great that its running right now! But how did the mechanic
determine that the carb was only feeding 1 side if it fixed
itself? I can understand that the back fire shook something loose, but
how can he determine what? Sounds like an FM fix to me. On 10/11/06, Dale
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Sometimes just a quick explosion of passing gas
will cure a lot of ills. LOL Nice to hear you got the problem solved. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein Okay
–
so here is the deal. After
trying in vain for 6 weeks to locate a vacuum leak in or around the carb,
the
car is fixed. Here is the scoop. I
finally pulled my last hair out over this issue, and still could not figure out
what the hell was going on. All 8 cylinders were firing –
check. Carb taken apart 2 or 3 times for gaskets/adjustment
–
check. Every single vacuum line on the car replaced or capped
–
check. Carb still showing signs of a vacuum leak at the passenger side
base (RPM's go up about 300 when carb cleaner is sprayed in this
vicinity). I talk to my brother, who knows everyone – he
mentions
that he knows a good carb guy, and I should give him a call. So I hobble
the 72 over to Precision Auto in Clovis Ca, and give directions to
"not
rebuild the carb for $230 – I had already performed a rebuild.
Please call me if the bill is going to go over $70 and I will fix it
myself." Well – day 1 goes by, and he can't figure it out
either – so he decides to sleep on it. Problem was that
the car would purr like a kitten when choked, but
run like s#%t under about 1300 RPM when warm. Seemed as if it was running
a tad lean. Turns out that the fuel was only feeding on one
side
of the carb – the drivers side. The mechanic was about to
pull the carb and soak it in carb cleaner to fix the problem, but decided to
start it one more time to see what happened. Well, the car backfired
through the carb something serious – and fixed itself. A
quick tune later, adjust the idle, and the car runs like it always did 9 years
ago. Wish it would have backfired for me so I could have saved
$70. So now, I move on to the next problem – hopefully I
can figure this one out without help! J T.J.
Ringlein – 72
Chevelle, in shambles Runnin'
again…..
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