This is very timely. Over the weekend I found how bad the soft spot in my floor pan really is: http://s629.photobucket.com/albums/uu13/rickas47/Floor%20Pan/?action=view¤t=Floordamage005.jpg I started by picking at it with my finger and opened it up this much in just a few minutes. I need to finish removing the interior completely to survey how bad it really is. I'll be asking for support soon.
On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 4:36 PM, <[email protected]> wrote: > Hi Don, i prefer to butt-weld any sheet metal used on the outside of the > car, as well as the floor pans, i just feel that the overlap of the flange > just creates a place for rust to start, but its easier to clean up the welds > -- and i think the factory used the flange welds on the floor pans- there is > a way i have seen that i would like to try with a tool from HTP 12002 > notcher, which creates a "V" and then you weld at the base of the "V" and > creates less grinding, but would not look very nice on a panel you could see > from both sides. and the tool is almost 100.00. > > Harlan > http://www.hkaa.webs.com > > > > > > > In a message dated 9/29/2009 4:15:39 PM Central Daylight Time, > [email protected] writes: > > > I'm looking to settle a dispute between two friends of mine... > > > > When replacing sheetmetal floor pans (or other panels) one friend says it's > best to butt-weld the panels together and grind each side clean. The other > says all edges should be flanged with a crimper and welded on one side, seam > sealed on the other side. Personally I have done both but never bothered to > clean up the welds. The second argues that the floor is not as strong when > butt-welded. > > What is your preferred method? > --Don > > > > > > > > > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
