Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one time use. I'll investigate. And I know that a butt weld is preferred but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer quarter I'll be more proficient.
On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell <[email protected]>wrote: > This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt weld my panels for > the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a new place for > rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to lap weld, > lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes to > plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet. > But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the > patch over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you > are also cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to > do is clamp and butt weld the panels back together. You should have no > problem welding at the trim line that you want to use and like you said the > trim can help hide any faults, but if you work at it you can get it dang > near perfect!!! As for the spot welds I use a 5/16 - 1/4 Rota Broach, its > pretty much like a spot weld cutter I bought mine from Snap On a few years > ago, Blair also makes them. But in a pinch you can drill a pilot hole or > just use a punch to center it up. Hope this helps. > > *Josh Campbell* > 66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it) > 66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel) > 71 Malibu (still FOR SALE) > You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just drag > you down to their level & beat you with experience. > > > --- On *Fri, 11/12/10, Rick Schaefer <[email protected]>* wrote: > > > From: Rick Schaefer <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair > To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[email protected]> > Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 2:29 PM > > > This will probably be the first of many messages as I attempt to > repair this > http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865 > . I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting > off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no > way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now. > > > First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm thinking (dangerous) > that I only need to go as high as the body line located just below the trim > rivets. I like that area because if I do a less than perfect job, it > will be partially hidden by the trim. > > Second question ( or statement) - I am going to flange and overlap the > top seam. Should the new panel lie over the original or should the new > panel be tucked under the original? Does it matter? I can get to the > entire backside of that seam thru the access panel in the bed and should be > able to seam seal it pretty well. > > Third - any hints/tips on drilling out the spot welds along the > bottom? I bought a special drill for them but my first attempt resulted > in the bit walking. Should I drill a small pilot hole? > > Thats all for today. Thanx > > Rick Schaefer > 72 TPI El Camino > > > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
