There is always a lot of debate on how to prep the inside of replacement
panels and the metal on the skeletal structure of the body that you exposed
when you removed the panel. The simple truth is that these cars have lasted
40-45 years with nothing applied to these areas. Not to mention they were daily
drivers for a number of these years. The only rust we find is in areas of high
moisture. We as car lovers are going to baby these cars for the rest of their
lives so they will never see the neglect they saw the first part of their lives.
Some of these panels are electroplated black. Take a rag with lacquer thinner
on it and wipe the panel. If the rags not black it's electroplated. In this
case leave it. It's the best prep you can get. If the rags black remove it and,
for best results, spray with epoxy primer. If you prime with anything else you
must top coat because it will draw moisture.
In reality the black coating from the factory weather electroplated or cheap
black paint is better than what the general put on them (nothing).
Now with all this said, I remove all factory coatings and epoxy prime the
whole replacement panel. I have found rust under this black coating many times
(even when electroplated).
----- Original Message -----
From: Josh Campbell
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
What I normally do is hit the backside of a panel with 80, 120, and
finally 220. Blow it off and wipe it with a little prep solvent then spraybomb
the heck out of it, yes grind back about 3 inches and spray weld-through primer
on the backside. Also do the new panel the same, that black sealer primer won't
last forever!! If your haven't noticed I like to try to keep from having to
come back in the future!!!!
Josh Campbell
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
71 Malibu (FOR SALE)
You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just
drag you down to their level & beat you with experience.
--- On Mon, 11/15/10, Rick Schaefer <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Rick Schaefer <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair - PREP PATCH PANEL
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[email protected]>
Date: Monday, November 15, 2010, 4:17 PM
What prep work is necessary before I cut & install a
reproduction patch panel? I'm thinking that I should at least prime the
backside before I install it. So before I do, seems like I ought to wash it
down - WITH WHAT? and then go over it once with 80 or 120 grit sander.
Would treating the bare metal with some type of ospho metal prep HELP? OR
HINDER?
I know that I will need to remove the primer from the immediate
area where I will be welding, how far should I strip it back? I do have
weld-thru primer for the stripped areas. Thanx again.
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Johann Grobler
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hullo Rick,
You touched on the Golden Word, Proficiency!!!!
Just take it slowly.
Johann W Grobler
Retired
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Schaefer
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 1:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair
Thank you both. I know of the glue on method and have always
thought that the special application gun would make it too expensive for a one
time use. I'll investigate. And I know that a butt weld is preferred
but I'm not sure that I could manage it over the distance. I repaired the
floor with a butt weld and had to buy a second panel because I screwed up the
first. But I took a good look at it all this AM and the inner fender well is
needing significant work too. Maybe by the time I'm doing the outer
quarter I'll be more proficient.
On Fri, Nov 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM, Josh Campbell
<[email protected]> wrote:
This is me personally on the matter, I prefer to butt
weld my panels for the simple fact that in my mind lapping the panels makes a
new place for rust to form, that's my personal take. If you are still going to
lap weld, lap the original over the new, and make sure to drill plenty of holes
to plug weld. Also be sure to stitch weld up your seam where the panels meet.
But think of this, if you were to butt weld your panels you can clamp the patch
over the old and use a die grinder to cut off your old panel and you are also
cutting the patch to fit all at the same time, then all you have to do is clamp
and butt weld the panels back together. You should have no problem welding at
the trim line that you want to use and like you said the trim can help hide any
faults, but if you work at it you can get it dang near perfect!!! As for the
spot welds I use a 5/16 - 1/4 Rota Broach, its pretty much like a spot weld
cutter I bought mine from Snap On a few years ago, Blair also makes them. But
in a pinch you can drill a pilot hole or just use a punch to center it up. Hope
this helps.
Josh Campbell
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisserie, 1st car never part
with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the
steering wheel)
71 Malibu (still FOR SALE)
You should never have a battle of wits with morons ...
they'll just drag you down to their level & beat you with experience.
--- On Fri, 11/12/10, Rick Schaefer <[email protected]>
wrote:
From: Rick Schaefer <[email protected]>
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Quarter Panel Repair
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"
<[email protected]>
Date: Friday, November 12, 2010, 2:29 PM
This will probably be the first of many messages
as I attempt to repair this
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/21067/cat/500/ppuser/1865
. I have a patch panel that goes as high as the tape. I am cutting
off the entire length because the inner panel is rusted also and there is no
way that I would be able to deal with that thru the holes I have cut now.
First question - Where should I cut the panel. I'm
thinking (dangerous) that I only need to go as high as the body line located
just below the trim rivets. I like that area because if I do a less than
perfect job, it will be partially hidden by the trim.
Second question ( or statement) - I am going to
flange and overlap the top seam. Should the new panel lie over the original
or should the new panel be tucked under the original? Does it matter? I
can get to the entire backside of that seam thru the access panel in the bed
and should be able to seam seal it pretty well.
Third - any hints/tips on drilling out the spot welds
along the bottom? I bought a special drill for them but my first attempt
resulted in the bit walking. Should I drill a small pilot hole?
Thats all for today. Thanx
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino
--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino
--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino
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