Hi John

You wont go anywhere close to what there is on the 16mm by using a camcorder 
and some sort of transfer box. The only way to go is to scan one frame at a 
time.
16 mm properly used is amzing, I ditched my camcorder for a 16mm Krasnosgorsk 
K3 camera.
Best option : find someone to do it properly then get some quicktime 422 
uncompressed files at original frame rate then you do the pulldown with varios 
tools (yuvfps, cinelerra etc..)
The red shift is probably coming from the light bulb of the projector (is it 
daylight balance ?)
Contact me off listif you want
Cheers
E




________________________________
From: John Detwiler <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 22 August, 2009 9:46:37 AM
Subject: [CinCV] Best practice: Restoring 16mm film to DVD?

I've been asked to transfer old 16mm film to DVD.  Unfortunately, the
first step is out of my control, and probably less-than-optimum: the
16mm film was simply projected (via ground glass) into a miniDV camera.

So...
(1) There's very bad red-shift (because of the age of the 16mm print),
which we can try to balance out but sometimes drives the camera beyond
its dynamic range.

(2) Bigger problem: the projector runs at 24fps, and the camera at 29.97
(interlaced).  As you expect:
    (a) Extreme flicker, 6 times per second;
    (b) Many frames are badly 'combed'.

I've tried various combinations of plug-ins (Inverse Telecine,
Deinterlace, Decimate, Field-to-Frame), but am not happy.

Is there a best practice that one can recommend for this situation
(other than 'reshoot at the right frame rate')?

Thanks!


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