Jonathan, I used 1/2 acrylic. I'm going to do the corners with a router and a bit with a guide so I can use the old lense as a template. You may be able to get the exact lense from Atkins and Hoyle, but no one responded to my inquiry on the website so I bought locally. I bought gasket from them for the hatch in the head - it was 1/2 inch diameter and someone had to stand on the hatch so I could close it, so you probably have the right stuff! It will mold to shape after a couple of weeks.
Joel On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 11:15 AM, Indigo <[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks for the great info. I know it is the frame to deck seal as I had > the Admiral direct a hose at various places and watched when the water came > in from below. I will try tightening up the screws - assuming they are not > frozen to the aluminum frame. > > I do wonder if I used the correct diameter gasket. Although advised by > Tony at Select Plastic, I am using quite a bit of force to pull down the > lense in order to engage the latches. Maybe a few more spacers will help > > Joel, what material did you use and how did you cut the round corners? I > should tackle this next year > -- > Jonathan > > > On Jul 15, 2012, at 10:20, Joel Aronson <[email protected]> wrote: > > Replacing the lense is not hard. Did the head and am about to do the > other 2 hatches. > > Joel > 35/3 > > On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 10:18 AM, John and Maryann Read < > [email protected]> wrote: > >> Hi Jonathan >> >> Had the same issue with ours many moons ago. The springs put a fair >> amount >> of torque on the frame pulling it up which eventually breaks the seal. If >> you have the OEM hatch it is most likely the Atkins and Hoyle. It is held >> in by short stainless screws that grab the fiberglass and is sealed with >> butyl strip. As a first fix, try tightening the aft edge screws just a >> tad >> while the hatch is open. Close hatch, run water and check for leak. You >> also might have a leak with the glass. Try running electrical tape over >> the >> aft seal edge. Run water and check. If you need to remove the hatch, >> just >> remove the screws, use a putty knife to break the butyl seal, clean >> thoroughly with turpentine or mineral spirits, use new butyl strip and >> reattach. Do not recommend sealers like 4200, sika flex, etc due to the >> movement of hatch versus hull and torquing action of springs >> >> If the glass seal is lacking, suggest you use tape for now and this winter >> remove the hatch and have Select Plastics rebuild >> >> http://www.selectplastics.com/ >> >> Best of luck >> >> John and Maryann >> Legacy III >> 1982 C&C 34 >> Noank, CT >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected] >> ] >> On Behalf Of Indigo >> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:34 AM >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: Stus-List Leaking forehatch 35Iii >> >> Just replaced the gasket hoping that would address the leak. Was devasted >> to >> find when washing the boat water was still entering the forepeak. >> Subsequently traced the location of the leak to be at the aft end of the >> hatch casement(?) between the aluminum and the deck. Since there is a >> headliner in the forepeak there does not seem to be an easy way to remove >> / >> rebels the hatch. Any advice on removing the hatch / headliner will be >> greatly appreciated >> >> Jonathan >> Indigo - 35III >> Southport CT >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> [email protected] >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> [email protected] >> > > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > [email protected] > > -- Joel 301 541 8551
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