Jonathan,
If you remove the hatch, consider beefing up the foundation for the fasteners.
Enlarge the hole in the deck and fill it with epoxy thickened with microfibers
or use "kitty hair" filler. The deck may be flexing enough to break the seal.
I really like how Island Packet and some other manufacturers attach deck
fittings. They mold in metal plates which they then drill and tap for the
fasteners. Very strong. Not sure how we could adapt that technique to our
existing boats but I'd sure like to figure it out
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 15, 2012, at 10:15 AM, Indigo <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for the great info. I know it is the frame to deck seal as I had the
> Admiral direct a hose at various places and watched when the water came in
> from below. I will try tightening up the screws - assuming they are not
> frozen to the aluminum frame.
>
> I do wonder if I used the correct diameter gasket. Although advised by Tony
> at Select Plastic, I am using quite a bit of force to pull down the lense in
> order to engage the latches. Maybe a few more spacers will help
>
> Joel, what material did you use and how did you cut the round corners? I
> should tackle this next year
> --
> Jonathan
>
>
> On Jul 15, 2012, at 10:20, Joel Aronson <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Replacing the lense is not hard. Did the head and am about to do the other
>> 2 hatches.
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 10:18 AM, John and Maryann Read
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hi Jonathan
>>
>> Had the same issue with ours many moons ago. The springs put a fair amount
>> of torque on the frame pulling it up which eventually breaks the seal. If
>> you have the OEM hatch it is most likely the Atkins and Hoyle. It is held
>> in by short stainless screws that grab the fiberglass and is sealed with
>> butyl strip. As a first fix, try tightening the aft edge screws just a tad
>> while the hatch is open. Close hatch, run water and check for leak. You
>> also might have a leak with the glass. Try running electrical tape over the
>> aft seal edge. Run water and check. If you need to remove the hatch, just
>> remove the screws, use a putty knife to break the butyl seal, clean
>> thoroughly with turpentine or mineral spirits, use new butyl strip and
>> reattach. Do not recommend sealers like 4200, sika flex, etc due to the
>> movement of hatch versus hull and torquing action of springs
>>
>> If the glass seal is lacking, suggest you use tape for now and this winter
>> remove the hatch and have Select Plastics rebuild
>>
>> http://www.selectplastics.com/
>>
>> Best of luck
>>
>> John and Maryann
>> Legacy III
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> Noank, CT
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
>> On Behalf Of Indigo
>> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 9:34 AM
>> To: [email protected]
>> Subject: Stus-List Leaking forehatch 35Iii
>>
>> Just replaced the gasket hoping that would address the leak. Was devasted to
>> find when washing the boat water was still entering the forepeak.
>> Subsequently traced the location of the leak to be at the aft end of the
>> hatch casement(?) between the aluminum and the deck. Since there is a
>> headliner in the forepeak there does not seem to be an easy way to remove /
>> rebels the hatch. Any advice on removing the hatch / headliner will be
>> greatly appreciated
>>
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo - 35III
>> Southport CT
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>>
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>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
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