Hi Gary

 

I got the same model boat as you and I don't think my boat was made like
yours as far as the holding tank goes but my boat does have a very small
holding tank and I don't see how it could flow backwards unless it was super
full maybe.what I do know is that water flows downhill and I think the guys
at C&C must have known that too.is it their original designs that are
causing this problem for folks or some after build changes

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Gary Russell
Sent: September 14, 2012 12:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Trouble

 

I don't have a diagram, but I can try to work something up.  It may take me
a little while though.

 

Perhaps a better description will work.  Let's start at the sea water inlet
and work through the system.

 

1.   Raw water inlet:  The raw water input comes from the seacock and goes
up through a "tee" to the sink drain.  This tee is for the line that goes to
the hand pump inlet on the head (Peggy Hall suggestion).  The reason for
this is so that you can close the raw water seacock, fill the sink with
fresh water and flush the fresh water throught the head.  This is to remove
the micro-organisms from the head plumbing that tend to stink really bad if
left in the hoses for a week or so.  It is much better to do this rather
than making any drirect connection to your potable water system (for obvious
reasons).

 

2.   Anti-syphon:  The outlet of the head hand pump (that usually goes to
the bowl, is disconnected and a anti-syphon valve is inserted.  So, the hose
leaves the pump, goes up above the heeled water line to the anti-syphon
valve.  It then returns to the bowl.  This is to prevent flooding of the
boat should a valve be left in the wrong position by the uninitiated user.
This concludes the raw water circuit.

 

3.   Head output:  The sewage output of the bowl goes to a fitting on the
side of my transverse tank (port side), near the top.  A piece of pvc pipe
is cemented inside this fitting and extends the head output to the other
side of the tank (starboard).  This is my idea, and it assures that when the
boat is heeled to port (my head is on the port side), and the tank is raised
above the level of the bowl by the heeling, the extended fitting is now
above the efluent.  This prevents drain-back to the bowl.  When the boat is
heeled to starboard, the extended fitting is now in the efluent, but by
heeling to starboard the tank is below the head and no syphoning can occur.
This keeps efluent from going back to the bowl when the boat is heeled in
either direction.

 

4.   Tank output.  The output of my tank is taken from the side of the tank
(near the bottom and goes to a "Y" valve.  One side of the "Y" goes up to
the deck fitting and the other goes through a Jacobson waste pump to the
outlet seacock.  The "Y" valve is lockable and the waste pump has a key
switch, all to prevent accidental discharge overboard.  This means that all
waste goes through the tank which is not a disatvantage as far as I am
concerned.

 

5.    Tank vent(s):  I have two 5/8" vent fittings on my tank (one top port
and one top starboard).  One goes out just below the toe rail on the port
side and the other on the starboard side.  To prevent a septic tank, you can
never have enough vents.  It might be a good idea to put a charcoal filter
in these lines, but so far I haven't done this.

 

That's my system, and I'm quite happy with it.  Any questions, fire away.
If that doesn't work, I'll try to post a diagram.

 

Gary

S/V Expresso

On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:09 AM, Richard N. Bush <[email protected]> wrote:

Gary, I have to confess I didn't quite get all of the finer points of your
description; would you possibly have a diagram or drawing of the system?
Thanks

Richard

1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584

 

 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255

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