Robertson head screws are much less likely to deform so that you can't remove them, so long as you don't use an undersize screwdriver. You are less likely to have to resort to some sort of alternate extraction device with Robertson head screws. They are way better than Phillips or slot heads in transferring torque from the screwdriver to the screw. In my opinion they are better in all applications except for assembly line work, where speed of assembly is the overriding concern, and where the engineers don't care if it is later difficult to remove them. The only thing I would do is make sure that they are stainless or bronze, and check them once in a while if you are concerned that they will fill up with dirt. That is not something that is likely to happen quickly.
Virtually every screw used to fasten anything that is connected to the hull of my boat has required re-tightening at some time. There must be a lot of flexing going on that is not obvious when actually sailing the boat. Steve Thomas 1978 C&C MKIII -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of M Bod Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 7:11 AM To: C&C list Subject: Stus-List Anchoring floorboards - was Re: floorboards This discussion leads me to a question. Looking at the CS 30 I had a really tough time getting under the floorboards - the Robertson head screws were full of dirt an it was very difficult to get many of the screws out. I had to use a little dental tool I'd brought with me to gouge the dirt out of each hole to make space for the screwdriver head. I'd hate to be trying to do that if I was in an emergency that necessitated access! Any better suggestions? Would you just go with a slot screw? Any better ideas - still seems to me you might be frantically trying to find a problem and the sheer number of screws could be overwhelming. Mark Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> wrote: Hi Bill Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw holes to install the new boards. +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over! Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote: I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish. Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut. Thoughts welcome. Bill Walker 36 Pentwater, Mi Sent from my HTC ----- Reply message ----- From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!! Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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