If the objective is to be able to get the floorboards up quickly, I would be 
very reluctant to use any fastening that can't  be undone with a common driver 
( kept in my case in the top drawer of the chart table) or with no tools at all

My 2cents fwiw

Jonathan
Indigo

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On Nov 8, 2013, at 8:05, Steve Thomas <sthom...@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Robertson head screws are much less likely to deform so that you can't remove 
> them, so long as you don't use an undersize screwdriver. You are less likely 
> to have to resort to some sort of alternate extraction device with Robertson 
> head screws. They are way better than Phillips or slot heads in transferring 
> torque from the screwdriver to the screw. In my opinion they are better in 
> all applications except for assembly line work, where speed of assembly is 
> the overriding concern, and where the engineers don't care if it is later 
> difficult to remove them. The only thing I would do is make sure that they 
> are stainless or bronze, and check them once in a while if you are concerned 
> that they will fill up with dirt. That is not something that is likely to 
> happen quickly.
>  
> Virtually every screw used to fasten anything that is connected to the hull 
> of my boat has required re-tightening at some time. There must be a lot of 
> flexing going on that is not obvious when actually sailing the boat.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> 1978 C&C MKIII
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of M Bod
> Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 7:11 AM
> To: C&C list
> Subject: Stus-List Anchoring floorboards - was Re: floorboards
> 
> This discussion leads me to a question. 
> 
> Looking at the CS 30 I had a really tough time getting under the floorboards 
> - the Robertson head screws were full of dirt an it was very difficult to get 
> many of the screws out. 
> I had to use a little dental tool I'd brought with me to gouge the dirt out 
> of each hole to make space for the screwdriver head. 
> I'd hate to be trying to do that if I was in an emergency that necessitated 
> access!
> 
> Any better suggestions? Would you just go with a slot screw? Any better ideas 
> - still seems to me you might be frantically trying to find a problem and the 
> sheer number of screws could be overwhelming. 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill
> Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then 
> using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards to 
> the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of the 
> same diameter) to trim.  No clamps required, and you use the same screw holes 
> to install the new boards.
> 
> +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to 
> panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
>> pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has 
>> for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.  
>> Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided 
>> tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.  
>> Thoughts welcome.   
>> Bill Walker
>> 36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>> Sent from my HTC
>> 
>> ----- Reply message -----
>> From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
>> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
>> Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM
>> 
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