Jig-a-Loo is the same stuff at less than half the price.
From: Jim Watts <[email protected]>
To: 1 CnC List <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2013 2:22:12 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
McLube works well, too. I have a spot where a bulkhead rubs against the liner,
one shot once a year and the squeaking stops.
On 9 November 2013 09:35, Rich Knowles <[email protected]> wrote:
Pour a little dish detergent in the creaking areas.
>
>Rich
>
>On Nov 9, 2013, at 12:12, "Brad Crawford" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>On the subject of floorboards, do others have squeaky, creaky floorboards like
>we do? Have you found a cure for it?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Brad
>>CnC 36
>>Seattle
>>
>>From:CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
>>[email protected]
>>Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:08 AM
>>To: [email protected]
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
>>
>>Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and
>>concerns.
>>Bill Walker
>>C n C 36
>>Pentwater, Mi.
>>
>>Sent from my HTC
>>
>>----- Reply message -----
>>From: "Ron Casciato" <[email protected]>
>>To: <[email protected]>
>>Subject: Stus-List floorboards
>>Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>Bill:
>>
>>
>>+++1 on the lining up the pattern………….your eye notices the slightest
>>mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you
>>enter the boat.
>>
>>
>>When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the
>>panels were matched as well end to end.
>>
>>
>>My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of
>>the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening.
>>These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the
>>raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings
>>wider to accommodate a ¼’ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and
>>epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners
>>make for a nice finish.
>>
>>
>>On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard
>>lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into
>>the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the
>>floor to match the slope of the hull.
>>
>>
>>The end result was very nice and professional looking………….I suppose that you
>>could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would
>>narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass……….we decided not to do that so
>>we finished it as above.
>>
>>
>>TAKE YOUR TIME……….. Final suggestion,………. Finishing the top surface………Epoxy
>>the underside is a must………..the edges as well ……….we used a product from
>>Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that
>>was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down
>>prevents dust from settling on the finish………. Two or three coats of that
>>stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish……I
>>never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped
>>wrenches, etc. without denting the surface…………..
>>
>>
>>A great project……………TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity
>>for best results with epoxy or other finish.
>>
>>
>>Good Luck,
>>
>>
>>Ron C.
>>
>>
>> _____
>>
>>From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave
>>Godwin
>>Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM
>>To: [email protected]
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards
>>
>>
>>Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a
>>buddy who worked in a boatbuilder’s woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing
>>it again this winter…
>>
>>
>>++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time.
>>
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>
>>
>>On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Hi Bill
>>Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8" all around, then
>>using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards
>>to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of
>>the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw
>>holes to install the new boards.
>>
>>+1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to
>>panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over!
>>
>>
>>
>>Graham Collins
>>Secret Plans
>>C&C 35-III #11
>>
>>On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>
>>I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for
>>pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has
>>for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish.
>>Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided
>>tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut.
>>Thoughts welcome.
>>
>>Bill Walker
>>
>>36
>>
>>Pentwater, Mi
>>
>>Sent from my HTC
>>
>>
>>----- Reply message -----
>>From: [email protected]
>>To: <mailto:[email protected]> <[email protected]>
>>Subject: Stus-List Current C&C History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
>>Date: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 9:03 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>>_______________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
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>_______________________________________________
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>[email protected]
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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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_______________________________________________
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