Re: Stus-List Winterizing

Tue, 19 Nov 2013 22:46:02 -0800

In a freshwater cooled engine, the block always has antifreeze in it. It's never drained.
The raw water side has rubber hoses, a strainer - probably bronze and stainless, the raw water pump, the heat exchanger - brass or copper tubes, which will drain down anyway, the mixing elbow - at the high point and will also drain down, the water muffler - which on mine is some sort of plastic or resin.
There is nothing in the raw water side to be concerned about as regards rust and wear.
I don't have a water heater.

sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


From: Mike
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

HI Josh
I would not recommend leaving the engine / exhaust dry.  The inside of the engine will rust and cause increased wear.  I always stored with plumbing in the engine.  I would drain the block/muffler.  Then run the antifreeze through it.  I would do this twice.  Never  Had any problems.
MIke
 
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
 

I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar.  Has any body considered blowing the lines clear?  I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out with a shop-vac.  I guess I should have kinda done it the other way around.  I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a gallon (or less) of antifreeze.   I have an RV friend that says he catches the antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year.  Any thoughts on blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry?

Anybody stay in the water through the winter?  I was thinking that the water heater might keep the cabin above freezing.  BTW I'm in the Chesapeake Bay.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" <[email protected]> wrote:
David

I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not.  If it is raw water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in order to get the antifreeze mix around the block.

If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 mix is about right for that.  I always check the freezing point of my engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make sure.

In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too.

It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last 5 years.


 
Dwight Veinot
Alianna
C&C 35 MKII
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS


On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht <[email protected]> wrote:
I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend.  I went ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel.  I pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and  then ran it up to the deck.  There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze.  I then started up the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine.  It leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter.  I am very happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to add a T to the intake port.  
My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should be drained.  I have no idea how to do that.  I presume the muffler is the large black cylinder behind the engine.  I can see no drain port on any visible side.  Dave
. 
 
 
David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 

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