Josh, I leave Penniless in the water every so often. This year is one of those. My boat yard has space under a covered shed that I can use and I want to take the mast out and look at it - and get under the mast step to make sure everything is OK under there, so we will pull the mast and park under the shed - in the water. I put a little space heater inside next to the engine to keep the bilge from freezing (if it gets that cold) and the engine warm but still put antifreeze through the engine. I put the heater on a timer - use it a couple of hours in the middle of the night. I blow out the water lines and let the tank get low enough that there is no danger of freezing busting anything. The lines are flexible plastic on the '80 30-1, so I would guess they have a little give if there is a low spot which isn't completely dry. I undo the lines to the sinks so there's some give. Both sink drains are straight down, so there's no issue there. A little antifreeze in the head and I'm OK.
I never tried just leaving the water heater on - mine (was - it got rusty and I pulled it out - don't camp out much) is in the lazarette so it wouldn't keep the cabin and the water tanks/lines warm, plus it is/was pretty well insulated. I've done this three or four times in the past and have no issues. The alternate years I pull it and let it dry out. Now I am just waiting until crane time for the mast and for them to get the power boat out of my winter slip. And, I live a block away.... so attention is not a problem - if we have a brutal winter I can go down and increase the time. Gary Nylander 30-1 St. Michaels MD ----- Original Message ----- From: Josh Muckley To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 7:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing I have a fresh water cooled Yanmar. Has any body considered blowing the lines clear? I actually added antifreeze last year and then blew it out with a shop-vac. I guess I should have kinda done it the other way around. I could have probably blown it dry and then chased it with half a gallon (or less) of antifreeze. I have an RV friend that says he catches the antifreeze from the sinks and reuses it every year. Any thoughts on blowing/leaving all the boat systems dry? Anybody stay in the water through the winter? I was thinking that the water heater might keep the cabin above freezing. BTW I'm in the Chesapeake Bay. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 19, 2013 7:13 PM, "dwight veinot" <[email protected]> wrote: David I can't remember if your engine is raw water cooled or not. If it is raw water cooled you have to get it hot enough for the thermostat to open in order to get the antifreeze mix around the block. If its not raw water cooled then just a run through the pump, heat exchanger and exhaust will do the trick provided your engine coolant mixture in the block and tank is such that it won't freeze, again a 50/50 mix is about right for that. I always check the freezing point of my engine coolant before winter storage with a little float gage just to make sure. In either case, your muffler should be protected and not require draining and if your pump impellor is surrouned by the antifreeze mixture I think the ethylene glycol is just as good as vegetable oil: I use that same mixture to winterize my electric marine toilet too. It's about an hour of frustrating work to remove the impellor from my Sherwood pump, that's another reason why I have not changed it in the last 5 years. Dwight Veinot Alianna C&C 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 7:19 PM, David Knecht <[email protected]> wrote: I wanted to report back on my winterizing efforts last weekend. I went ahead with my plan and purchased 15’ of 5/8” tygon tubing and a funnel. I pushed that into the intake port on the outside of the hull and then ran it up to the deck. There I prefilled the tubuing iwth the funnel and then put the end into a bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze. I then started up the engine and watched as it sucked the antifeeze through the engine. It leaked a bit around the intake port, but not enough to matter. I am very happy with this procedure since I can do it myself and I am on deck throughout the entire process watching the engine temp and fluid levels and does not require me to add a T to the intake port. My only concern now is that some info I read indicated the muffler should be drained. I have no idea how to do that. I presume the muffler is the large black cylinder behind the engine. I can see no drain port on any visible side. Dave . David Knecht Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com [email protected]
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