Will do. The deck and gelcoat on Windburn is well worn so I do not have a problem drilling a few holes, and if something has to be moved, a few more. When all the rigging projects get done it will be time for new gelcoat.
I simulated a #3 with a couple of lines and played with the geometry for the jib sheet and sail size. It must have looked like an interesting project, had lots of people stop by with advice. Thankfully a bit of it was expert from a sailmaker and a rigger, helped a lot. The 1.25" T-track is 18" long with pin stops at 2" intervals. I used Harken Mid boat gear, #1997 for the lead car. It can be removed when not required, one less thing to snag a sheet with. The placement is on the deck, constrained by the bulkhead forward and the cabin top inwards. That leaves most of the track in front of the mast / shrouds. The track is straight, parallel to the center line of the boat as advised by a rigger. The #3 may be a bit small, erred that way on purpose, so the car is usually all the way forward. Installation started with making up two SS backing plates about 2.5 x 24" and rounding the corners. Using various reference points on the deck the T-track was set into place and pilot holes drilled. That looked good from below, so oversized holes were drilled, larger access holes from the inside, some balsa removed, filled with West Epoxy, then re-drilled. When that looked OK I cut a slot out of the headliner and tapped the backing plate in between the headliner and the deck, then drilled through the backing plate. The side of the cabin top is curved at that point, making installation a bit trickier at least for a T-track. The cabin top was deemed a bit high and too small of a sheeting angle by various people. Perfect may have been slightly more inboard but it turns out that the lazy sheet works as an inhauler. The #3 usually is kept sheeted tightly. We can put a bit of twist into the blade ( it has battens so it doesn't flog ), which would allow the clew to move outboard. We play with the lazy sheet and try to match the curve of the main. The blade is larger than the #3 but flatter. I am impressed how little speed the #3 loses compared to the North 155% 3DL with winds of 8 kts and up. The 3DL is faster and points better, but for general cruising the #3 is so much easier to tack and allows better visibility. Next step may be to get a sailmaker on board and see if a larger or different #3 would provide even better performance. If some guidelines come out of this project I will update you. It may be that getting a recut of your#3 would provide you with a nice solution. Mounting the T-track was work, took about 20 hours including measuring and making up the backing plates. Not expensive, the lead cars came from eBay. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2014 11:23:39 -0500 From: "Gary Nylander" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MK1 Racing ability Message-ID: <44937508F60141938AEC05BC957EEF18@GaryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Keep us in the loop with your results and conclusions.... We don't get much heavy weather around here, but the few times we do, it would be very interesting to have a sail combination which would let the boat perform like it should. Is your inboard track on the deck or the side of the cabin? How far inboard of the shrouds? How long? I have thought that my number 3 (working jib) might work inside the shrouds, but it is just a little too big - it has a high clew which ends up right at the shrouds when sheeted to my track which is about three feet behind the shrouds and on the same plane. I could cut it down a little and see - but wouldn't spend the money unless I was reasonably sure it would work. We don't get enough days with that much wind to spend a lot of time experimenting. Gary
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