I had a Rule automatic pump where the water level is determined by
impellers' resistance to turning or motor load. Mine ran 24/7 because the
bilge crud would foul the impeller and create enough resistance to fool it
into permanently sensing water in the bilge. Cleaning the Impeller /
flushing the bilge was a very temporary fix as more crud always seemed to
re-appear.
For the switch:
I ended up going with Water Witch switch
https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products/BilgeSwitches.html
It's an electronic switch but it's known as the best. They are
warrantied for 7 years and are used by the Coast Guard. So far it's been
flawless.
For the Pump.
I went for a manual switch version Johnson 750 GPH. That's the largest
pump I could get into the little sump area my boat has for a pump.
I had to do away with the one way valve as it was not priming / flowing
efficiently so it burps back about 2 cups of water into the sump when It's
done pumping.. I can live with that and so far it's been very reliable.
I would like to add a diaphragm type pump with it's own through hull
connected to a high water sensor as a backup one day but that's pretty far
down the priority list..
As I am writing this my desk feels like it's heaving as I spent the long
weekend on the boat :-)
-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia
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