Thanks for the advice guys. I came across a C&C 24 rudder failure problem in the Wooden Boat forums (see below). According to the guy whose rudder snapped, it¹s 2 mahogany planks wrapped in fiberglass mat. That makes the drilling a hole idea seem a little unnecessary, unless I do it to see if the mahogany is rotting, not to expect water to pour out. Maybe later C&Cs used a foam core. Thanks for the tip on the pinless moisture meters, I have an old lignomat pin type. Ed
³In heavy winds last Sunday (7/22) my rudder snapped at the water line - the broken off part disappeared as my C&C 24 was blown in circles until I got the sails down. A replacement was quoted at $2900. The construction was fiberglass mats over two sandwiched mahogany planks. I am looking for advice on rebuilding it. Would marine grade plywood be stronger? I thought I would cut the general shape out of mahogany or plywood sandwiched together and then over lay it with fiberglass mats. Any suggestions?² From: Ken Heaton <[email protected]> Reply-To: <[email protected]> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 09:21:17 -0300 To: Ed Dooley <[email protected]>, cnc-list <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question No gouging. You use a Pinless Moisture Meter like this: http://answers.canadiantire.ca/answers/9045/product/0574572P/mastercraft-mas tercraft-pinless-moisture-detector-questions-answers/questions.htm Or these: http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm You don't use the meter for an absolute value, instead you use the meter to compare an area you know is dry to one that is questionable. I don't know anything about the construction of the rudder on the 24 but I'll assume it is a fibreglass shell with a foam core and a structural web inside welded to the rudder shaft. Me, I'd drill a 1/8"hole straight up through the bottom edge of the rudder, using a long bit so you can get several inches up into the foam core and see if water comes out. If there is water and it comes out clear you shouldn't have too much to worry about except what damage may already have been done through freezing. If it comes out rusty and black I'd be concerned about the condition of the internal structure. Plug the hole whit epoxy before you launch the boat. Re drill the hole in the fall when you haul so the water can't freeze in there. Ken H. On 5 June 2014 02:52, Ed Dooley via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: > No, It's hanging on the stern, outside, for a Vermont winter, 5 winters in a > row since I've bought the boat. A moisture meter implies gouging a hole > through the fiberglass. Is that what you're suggesting? > Ed > > On Jun 4, 2014, at 7:21 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <[email protected]> > wrote: > >> Do you dry it out over the winter? If no, try a moisture meter to check. My >> 27 has drain plugs I installed to dry out over the Ontario winter.. >> >> From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List <mailto:[email protected]> >> Sent: 2014-06-04 5:00 PM >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: Stus-List C&C 24 rudder question >> >> After reading a few posts of rudder failure on C&C 24s, I thought I should >> look into mine. >> It seems solid, but how do I know without drilling into it? There is a crack >> in the fiberglass at the top of the rudder, >> but I can¹t tell how far in it goes unless I dig into it. Any thoughts on >> exploratory surgery? I know there are some doctors on this list. :-) >> Thanks, >> Ed >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> [email protected] >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page >> at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >>
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