I posted these last year but for anybody who is interested here is a link
to the pictures of my rudder being rebuilt.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA/edit

Steve Uthoff at Annapolis Fiberglass and Gelcoat did a fantastic job.  He
did find some interesting problems including the lack of ANY bonding of the
SS web to either side of the rudder.  No corrosion on the web though.
Looked like most of the water was comming down the shaft.  He ground out a
v-groove around the shaft and filed it with g-flex.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 6, 2014 4:28 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>  We had Calypso's balsa cored rudder off the boat last year for repairs.
> Water poured out of the exploratory holes we drilled in the fiberglass
> skin, low and forward near the area needing repair.
>
>
>
> After the rate of flow slowed we got out a 3" hole saw and cut larger
> exploratory holes looking for the edges of the wet balsa area.  One of the
> things we noticed is water leaking down from the top (likely seeping in
> from around the SS rudder shaft) would often be stopped from draining all
> the way to the bottom by resin filled channels between sections of balsa.
> We found evidence of balsa that had been wet for years.
>
>
>
> On a large balsa core rudder it is unlikely it would dry completely with a
> few drain holes in the bottom even over a winter.  With Calypso's rudder we
> opened up enough skin on one side to expose the wet balsa areas, removed
> the damaged core and dried the rest.  (We did the work in July so even in
> Seattle the hot and dry weather did the trick in two weeks.)  We repaired
> the skin where it was removed and added cloth around the leading edge to
> reduce the chance of more damage from log/debris strikes.
>
>
>
> To improve the seal around the rudder shaft, we ground out a 1/4 " V groove
> and filled it with 3M 4200. We did debate using an epoxy (like West's
> G-Flex) but decided that epoxy would not bond well enough to the SS.  At
> rest, Calypso's rudder/shaft interface is slightly above water.  We will
> watch this spot closely and renew the 4200 when needed.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 06, 2014 11:19 AM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List c&C 24 rudder detail
>
>
>
> George,
>
> On my 40 it weeps all winter.  I drilled about 6 holes (per my  rudder
> expert) this and the result was the same as in years past.
>
> Still not sure what I am going to do.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>   ------------------------------
>
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 14:15:01 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List c&C 24 rudder detail
> From: [email protected]
>
> I +1 this. I still have a hanger in my basement (actually next to the
> furnace) where the rudder used to spend its winters. It was completely dry
> the next spring.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* George Cone via CnC-List <[email protected]>
>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 06, 2014 9:16 AM
>
> *To:* [email protected]
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List c&C 24 rudder detail
>
>
>
> Ed, I am based in Burlington too, and I also have the  details of water in
> the rudder (on a 40), I drilled the 2 holes, one at the top and one in the
> bottom in the fall(so that it could possibly drain better, it was still
> weeping last weekend when I sealed the holes back up for the summer, I'll
> probably redrill them in the fall. So plan that it will take time to get
> the water out, I would recommend in your case you consider taking the
> rudder home in the fall and leaving it in the furnace room for the winter
> with the holes in it. Marine Tex is a wonder sealer for the summer, and fast
>
>
>
> George Cone
>
> C&C 40 La Vida
>
>
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
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