Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick
attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never used
a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version.
It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have found
only a couple options. Spinlock seems to own the market and $200 is about
the minimum I found. Is that what I am looking at to replace this? Should I
look at a different type? Suggestions are welcome.

Skip
1974 C&C 33 3/4 tonner
Portsmouth, RI 

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 8:04 AM
To: Brent Driedger; [email protected]
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller

Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued
together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course. 

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine
woodwork carpenter. I've approached him already. 
> I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I
bought the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it,
kind of a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of
the tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to
run it further than. I'm comfortable with. 
> 
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a
bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make
replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought
some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the
shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205
resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing
wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep
into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some
strips glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend
the grip end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick
on the original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit
my hand in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split
with thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when
refinishing. I think I have some pictures of the process. I'll look tonight
and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that
tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the
overall look of the boat.
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> 
>>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
>>> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legs    I'm going to replace it
this winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's
design splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything
like it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How
about composite?  No more maintenance.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
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>> 
>> 
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> 
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