I have a Landfall 38 and I replaced a short section of my rub rail a long time
ago--it rubbed up against a piling real seriously. It wasn't that big a
problem but it was just a short length (maybe 3 feet long) and it was near the
anchor well where I had good access to bolts. If you look closely at the
underside of the hull-to-deck joint there are both thru bolts (the permanent
fastening) and screws (probably temporary fastening during construction). This
means you will have to completely remove the teak toe rail to get at the heads
of the screws for their removal. (You would have to remove and reinstall the
toe rail anyway.)
Even though the part of the rub rail that sticks out beyond the hull is not
structural or will not affect leak tight integrity, I think if you cut it off
and put something else over it, it will look cheap. Also, I wouldn't want to
add a bunch of screw holes into my hull (to mount a new rub rail over the old)
just at the structural joint between the deck and the hull.
I can tell you that the rub rail is made from white EPDM and paint does not
stick well to EPDM. I'd bet you can scrape it off rather easily--you could
also use a varnish remover to make it come off easier but be careful about this
touching the hull.
I think that before you try some Rube Goldberg fix like putting another rub
rail over the outside, I would try very hard to clean the paint off. If the
paint doesn't come off, I think I would try replacing the rub rail by removing
the entire toe rail and all the screws. Then, try replace just a few feet at a
time until you are all around the perimeter of the boat. There is probably
enough flex in the outer part of the deck to do this. It would be a big job
and it would be best done out of the water.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: [email protected]
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
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