Edd, you will need to size the alternator output wire according to the max potential output of the alternator and the length of the run. You will probably gets lots of different answers about fusing that wire, ABYC does not require it but many people do put a fuse in there. The problem with having a fuse there is that if it blows you will probably fry the diodes in the alternator. I did fuse mine with an 80 amp fuse (55 amp alternator) and 8 gauge wire. both the wire and fuse are oversized for the job, but I don’t want that fuse to ever blow. remember that fuses are used to protect the wire and should always be sized to protect the smallest gauge used in the circuit. James “Delaney” 1976 C&C 38 Oriental, NC
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 5:34 PM To: mailto:[email protected] Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram Graham, This is the switch I’ll be installing: https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8280.jpg And yes, I’ll be connecting the alternator to the house bank as well, not to the starting bank (with an Echo charger between the house and starting — http://www.westmarine.com/buy/xantrex--digital-echo-charge-battery-charger--333669) For the group: What size wire should I place between the Alternator and the House Bank? Do I need a fuse and, if so, how big? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jan 30, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Graham Collins <[email protected]> wrote: Here is my schematic (should be small enough to slip thru the listserver). I used the BlueSea charge combiner on my previous boat, this wiring diagram is for it. The current boat is getting the same setup, the only difference is likely to be that I connect the alternator to the house bank, not the starting bank. I like the BlueSea switch - one switch does it all. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11On 2015-01-30 5:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Fred, Thanks (and thanks to all who have provided advice and diagrams — LOVE this f-in list!!) So here’s my concern, which may be a non-issue because I’m not understanding it correctly: As I understand it, the Echo charger will transfer charge to another bank when the primary bank is full (correct?) Since I mainly run the engine for 20 minutes or so powering out to a start line on a Wednesday Night, and if 20 minutes is not enough time to effectively charge the house bank, would the starting battery then not get charged? And if so, would I not eventually drain the starting battery to the point that I can’t start the engine without combining? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jan 30, 2015, at 4:49 PM, Frederick G Street <[email protected]> wrote: Edd — it’s best with this kind of setup to have ALL the charging sources go to the larger house bank, then use the combiner or EchoCharge to keep the start battery topped off. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:32 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: My solar panel regulator has two outputs, so I could conceivably have one go to the house and the other go to the engine battery (or maybe I shouldn’t??) _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com <wiring schematic.GIF> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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