Interesting question Dwight. The front windshield on my car is supposed
to be an integral part of the car's safety accessories and yet it is
glued in place by a Sika product. Sika is good enough for automobile
insurance companies and the marine insurance companies probably don't
care what we use to glue our windows in place.
In the case of our C&C 32, the Plexus harden like 'resin' and cracked as
the boat flexed, thus causing the windows to leak. I had very little
problem cutting them out when we removed them.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-02-12 3:15 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
Rick
Is it really true that the designers at C&C expected glued on acryllic
ports to stiffen the whole boat
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, */Alianna/*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I
consider to be less stylish but much more practical, so I'm
basically just an interested onlooker to this discussion. But it
seems to me a point made several years ago in a similar thread has
been lost here.
The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and
helped to stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better
part of 30 years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging
gel oat when removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an
adhesive.
Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and
sealers. (And also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using
the primer.) I used Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is
great for car windshields (which are bedded in rubber so the
window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains
flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've
gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to
leaks in a few years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by
screws tend to get cracks at the stress points.
As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight
solutions and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not
stylish aluminum frames. I just wanted to remind the group about
why the frameless portlights were glued in by C&C in the first place.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last
Spring. We used 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a
lot of work, we are very pleased with the end result.
All the best,
Edd
-------------------------------
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com <http://www.StarshipSailing.com>
-------------------------------
914.332.4400 <tel:914.332.4400> | Office
914.774.9767 <tel:914.774.9767> | Mobile
-------------------------------
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would
definitely need the screws/bolts.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
WI :^(
On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were
attached by screws? What about bolts all the way through to
some nice wood trim that would "clamp" the cabin top sides
between the windows and interior trim?
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