The Blue Sea ACR that I have has a connect voltage and disconnect voltage.
This prevents relay chatter and does hold the connection at float levels.
Relay Contact Position
Combine 30 sec
13.6V DC
Open 10 sec
12.35V DC
Open 30 sec
12.75V DC
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 2:10 PM
To: Peter Fell; C&C List
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)
Wouldn't a relay also maintain float? The relays aren't supposed to turn on
until the house battery is full (~13.5v) so when the relay closes the
starting battery is actually to largest "load" on the charger. Right?
Josh
On Mar 28, 2015 1:42 PM, "Peter Fell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
It also says when the output voltage reaches 14.4 volts, it reduces the
output current to maintain a float condition. There's also a curve in the
owner's manual that relates difference in voltage between banks to output
amperage. When the voltage difference is low, the amperage is high and it
decreases as the voltage difference increases.
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 10:26 AM
To: C <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> &C List ; Rich Knowles
<mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)
Rich,
Great explanation but don't the other combiners turn off once the starting
battery is greater than or equals to the house? As was pointed out to me
the echo-charge is simply a voltage follower with a limit of 14.4v. At
least one relay style combiner I've seem has an adjustable high voltage
shutoff.
Josh
On Mar 28, 2015 10:51 AM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
I didn't realize I'd start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late
reply. Work.
I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:
When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated
combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive
the same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb
different amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery
that is fully charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously
provided excessive voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high
voltage to efficiently recharge it.
In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for
just that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage
to the starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in
reasonable condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually
within a few minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good
condition should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before
requiring recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as
charging of house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose
electrolyte. If this process is repeated often or long enough, the start
battery will eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine.
This situation is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and
multi step AC chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than
those produced by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage
chargers.
Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the
EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated
engine start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough
charge voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there
will always be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be
provided to enable emergency use of the house battery to start the engine or
the engine start battery to provide house power.
I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass
batteries installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of
money for expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main
house battery. If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry,
ventilated, relatively cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal
cause for failure I have seen.
Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen and
installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be
connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery
charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output
smart charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the
EchoCharge to distribute charge current as needed to start and other
auxiliary batteries, one device for each battery. That charger is connected
to the same point in the system as the alternator, as are any wind
generators and solar panels on board.
As an aside, I'm intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger
battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient
charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our
boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments,
lighting and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period
and generally will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery
bank should be plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight that
simply slows down the boat and extends time between longer charges.
Controversy is welcomed!
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.
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