You might consider changing the engine stop cable at the same time. I replaced
mine recently and the brand new stop cable requires a lot less force to pull.
Not even remotely comparable to the old rusty one...
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 12:19:38 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 80
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: monta...@gmail.com
Yanmar TYPE B Control panel.
The engine stop push pull that was attached to the Yanmar panel had its last
pull recently. The panel became too brittle to withstand the leverage and hey
presto. Has anyone experienced the same? We are looking to find a replacement
panel or a new panel and relocate the engine stop lever elsewhere, perhaps the
pedestal.
Appreciate any help/insight on this
James
C&C 34 1982
On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Darker Smoke, Harder to Start (Bill Bina - gmail)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 11:50:09 -0400
From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
Message-ID: <55649631.9090...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
Bill Bina
On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
> Steve,
>
> That?s where I?m confused, to be honest ? the spec sheet on the T-1275
> is here:
> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
>
> And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while
> starting. When I combine, there?s enough there.
>
> All my connections are sound ? they?re all new.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Edd,
>> From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275
>> has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly
>> in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the
>> battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see
>> what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest
>> Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged
>> and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider
>> paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
>> starting problem.
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
>
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