Ed: The sail drive option is worth considering if you're going to buy new. It adds an element of complexity but at the same time eliminates a lot of other concerns. Sail drive units aren't perfect - you will live in fear of electrolysis but they do have advantages. I don't believe cost is one of them on a retrofit. They are cost beneficial to the original builder which may be why you see them on all the new boats. They do require serious maintenance every 7 years. With that said, they do simplify the installation, are quiet and offer a significant reduction in vibration. Yanmar makes a spectacular unit.
Just a thought John Sent from my iPad > On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:24 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Edd; > > If it was salt water in the engine, you probably need to look hard at your > raw water and exhaust system. When my M35B froze up in 2009, that was the > source of my problem. > > The PO had saved money be not putting an exhaust riser in back of the exhaust > manifold, and by not putting a vented loop in between the heat exchanger and > the exhaust elbow. He used only the exhaust elbow, and to run the exhaust > hose across the back of the engine at a slight downward angle to a muffler > only slightly below the exhaust elbow. Then there was no vertical lift aft of > the muffler (Universal calls for the exhaust to go at least 18” above the > waterline at some point between muffler and exhaust through hull). End > product was that water in the exhaust when the engine was shut off drained > back to fill the muffler and hose, and then got back into the exhaust > manifold when the boat heeled over while sailing. > > That was OK as long as I ran the engine fairly frequently and blew the water > out of the manifold. But when I had the boat immobile for a couple of months > for some work (and I recall you just put considerable time into rewiring) the > water in the manifold leaked back through the exhaust valves into a couple of > cylinders and I ended up with a locked up engine with only a bit over 600 > hours on it. > > $6-7000 is pretty consistent with what it would have cost me for a complete > rebuild on my M35B back in 2010 (which was between $5500 and 6K at that > time). But don’t be afraid of a rebuild. If it is done right, it is not going > to be a 25 year old engine when it is done. All the wear parts (gaskets, > seals, bearings, rings, etc) will be brand new. The head will be machined and > rebuilt to the spec of a new engine. And since you have a bent rod, you will > get a new set of rods and pistons. About the only “old” parts will be the > block, head, flywheel, and crankshaft. And as part of the rebuild process > everything gets restored to the manufacturers spec for a new engine. > > As I’ve said, opted for a bobtail engine at $6500, and reused my existing > transmission and engine control panel. Everything else was brand new, > including the motor mounts. > > Has anyone suggested a Long Block to you? A long block is a new engine, > typically less the exhaust manifold, starter, alternator, etc. Probably need > to get one from the Kubota engine dealer, and typically the long block is > higher material cost but less labor than a rebuild, and does not cost much > more in total. Might serve to allay your fears about a “25 year old” engine. > > Finally, I don’t know who told you it would take months to rebuild your > engine. Your local tractor, forklift, industrial equipment, equipment rental, > and truck dealers do it every day. In truth, I’ve never rebuilt a 4 cylinder > Kubota. But I used to do a 6 cylinder Cummins about once a month when > teaching groups of 6-8 new mechanics how to do it. Even with needing to teach > how to look up specs and use special tools, a broken engine on a pallet > became a completely rebuilt, properly adjusted, and running engine during a 4 > ½ day class. And the 4 cylinder Yanmar engines used to take about 3 ½ days. > Look in the yellow pages or online for someone who specializes in Kubota > tractors and industrial equipment instead of just looking at boat yards. > > Rick Brass > Washington, NC > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd > Schillay via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 10:17 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Edd Schillay > Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh > > Russ, > > It was determined that it’s sea water in the engine, not antifreeze (raw > water pump was leaking and the antifreeze “tank” was full. Therefore, it > can’t be the head gasket as the culprit (I’m told the salt water system never > gets up that high — just the antifreeze). All of the injectors were seized. > They cleaned them out and put fresh fuel in there. Could not get the engine > to turn 100%, even by hand. 75% was it, then stop. > > So they think it’s a bent rod which means a rebuild. > > So now I’m asking myself — do I spend $6-7000 fixing up a 25 year-old engine > (and lose two months or more of my season) or do I spend $10,800 on a brand > new one? > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Starship Enterprise > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B > City Island, NY > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Jun 25, 2015, at 12:08 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Hi Edd, > > Wasn't this a suspected head gasket leak a while ago? Then confirmed > suspicion finding discoloured oil (grey) and cranking with no firing? So now > it's probably just hydraulic'ed and they want to remove the whole puppy! > > Did anyone try barring it over with the injectors removed? > > Don't you have a competent mechanic nearby who can pop the head off in less > than a couple of hours and give you a good opinion? > > Might save the season and a few grand to boot, Russ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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