Hi PatrickNot sure a sissor jack will fit. You might have to get creative
in supporting the nack of the engine. For realignment purposes, I would
recommend measuring the existing height of the mounts. That will get you close
for realigning the shaft. I think the hull will support half of the engine
weight. You might try devising a lever out of a 2x4 and?? For raising the
engine. The prop shaft and shaft log are in the way for using a jack (I think).
Holler if you need any help.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
------ Original message------From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Tue, Aug
11, 2015 20:30To: [email protected];Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Stus-List
Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the
logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.
I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the
perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end
of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection
(purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus
Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe
I'll consider replacing the aft two.
I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews
said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more
rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a
slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear.
Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested
in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine
is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing
engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue
with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may
be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on.
I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place
that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull.
And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read
that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised
enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that
actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload.
Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it
will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not to
break in the summer months, but I guess not!
-PatrickS/V Violet Hour, LF38Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina
------------------------------------Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com
Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013
I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I
used the R&D Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing engine
mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded bolts) the
job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start.In 1970 Bruckmann's
was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to build up the engine
support frames. Once I understood what was under all the fiberglass and paint
I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the older ones if possible.The
results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the
engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted
through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being
confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked
down in a heavy sea.One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help
is a small scissor jack to be used in holding the engine in place while
changing the mounts. Let me know if you want more info on how I approached the
process, but there is much already written about the topic
available.MartinCalypso1970 C&C 43Seattle
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