Patrick,
I recently installed a rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30 in a LF38. Replacing the two
transmission mounts should be
easier with the transmission and v-drive mounted for leverage. With the mount
nuts free, you should be able to pry
up the end of the v-drive and block it from underneath or you could lift the
v-drive up using a block and tackle.
See some of my installation photos at the end of the this page:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/EngineWork
I suggest getting new stainless bolts, washers, and nylon locknuts. Installing
the mounting nuts and washers
is the real challenge. If you drop a nut or washer, it is lost, so get a few
extra just incase. I used masking tape to
hold the nut and washer on a box wrench which I then inserted into the tiny
access holes of the support struts.
With this arrangement, was able to rather easily bolt the mounts in place. I
tied a string on the box wrench, so
if I dropped the wrench, it was quickly fished out.
As I said it would be easier to do with the v-drive for leverage, but you could
likely lift it with a 2x4 and block it.
I basically walked the engine in place this way.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
> On Aug 12, 2015, at 1:00 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 20:29:29 -0700
> From: Patrick Davin <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> To: "[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>"
> <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
> Message-ID:
> <CAHixY6QzJHe=xqzqbdolqjpqnwidhyq2e7qtvsjybt66um+...@mail.gmail.com
> <mailto:CAHixY6QzJHe=xqzqbdolqjpqnwidhyq2e7qtvsjybt66um+...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of
> the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.
>
> I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's
> the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two
> (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical
> inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were
> delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If
> this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two.
>
> I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online
> reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too -
> a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair
> amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission
> premature wear.
>
>
> Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be
> interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even
> though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you
> mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm
> ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm
> expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts
> look a bit rusted on.
>
> I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would
> place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and
> the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack
> in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine
> until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at
> that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could
> upload.
>
> Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long
> it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew
> not to break in the summer months, but I guess not!
>
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, LF38
> Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina
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