As mentioned above, It is a combination of apparent wind and comfort level.
If you are a cruiser then I would consider heaving to then reefing the main. The boat will be relatively flat and comfortable when you work on setting the reef. I used to do this when single/short handed and it was much easier. Eric C&C 34/36 On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 5:19 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Patrick, > > I have a similar system on my 35/3, but rather than having a slide stop I > have a metal plate (a gate) that (sort of) allows the slides to stay in the > slot while dropping to the boom. That allows me to use the horn. A rigger > can make a plate that screws on and eliminates the stop. > > As far as when to reef, it depends on wind angle, wind speed, seas and who > is onboard. Upwind cruising, when apparent wind is over 18 knots I usually > reef with my 135 up. If heeling over 20 degrees it makes sense to reef. > > My halyard is pre-marked for the proper spot. I ease the sheet, drop the > halyard to the proper spot, head up if necessary to get the sail to drop, > put the ring on the horn, return to the cockpit and yank on the reefing > line. Then trim main. > > Hope that helps. > Joel > 35/3 > Annapolis > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I have some questions on reefing. I know the basics, but want to get more >> advanced so that it's easy even in challenging conditions. Especially >> learning any handling characteristics that are specific to C&C's. >> >> Difficulty reefing was the one of the few sail handling issues we had on >> our cruise of Vancouver Island last month. >> >> Typical Puget Sound summer winds are under 20 kts, so our practice >> reefing has always been relatively easy. >> But in 25 kts (gusting to 30?) with 6-10 foot sharp waves from current >> and wind driven water stacking up in the Strait of Juan de Fuca approaching >> Race Rocks it was a whole different experience and somewhat scary. >> (and yes I know, reef early, reef often, but I don't need that lecture ;) >> Besides, it doesn't change the fact you have to know how to reef in 25 to >> 40 knots, because if you're ever in those winds you'll need to put the 2nd >> or 3rd reef in). >> >> Anyone here have a procedure for easy reefing (or easier than what I'm >> doing at least), that doesn’t involve ponying up $3000 to $5000 to install >> a new mainsail track? (guessing it might cost that much or more if the >> main sail needed to be replaced or restitched with new slides) >> >> Or is that basically an impossible wish? (ie, reefing in difficult >> conditions will always be difficult) >> >> A few questions: >> >> - Do you use boat speed over water as a criteria for when to reef? If so >> what's the speed for an LF38 at which you consider it overcanvased? >> (keeping in mind that we're cruisers, not racers, so our priority is >> keeping boat speed up without being uncomfortable or expending too much >> energy) >> >> - The mainsail 1st reef tack cringle doesn't reach down to the reefing >> horn on the boom, because the sail slides are stacked up on the track >> stopper (which cannot go any lower, and prevents the slides from falling >> out of the track). So I've taken to tying a line through it and tensioning >> that around a deck cleat. Should I actually be removing the track stopper, >> moving 3 or 4 sail slides below the stopper (loose) and reinserting the >> stopper? That would be a major PITA, but I think the existing situation is >> causing the reef tack to be a bit too high, which likewise causes the reef >> clew point on the leech to be a bit high. >> >> - Is it essential to release the vang before reefing? What's the reason >> that's often recommended? Is it to make the foot of the sail slack and >> billowy rather than flat, in order to make the clew reef point easier to >> pull in? >> >> >> Some info on the current setup: >> - single line reefing with the line run back to the cockpit. Not run >> through the luff (tack) cringle (I may change this though), so I have to go >> forward to tie down the reef's tack. >> - It's what's shown in "Single line and cowhorn" on this page: >> http://www.offshore-sailor.com/index.php/seamanship-and-boat-handling/5-reefing-systems.html >> - I could switch to full on jiffy reefing (run the line through the >> tack cringle) but am worried there's already too much friction in the >> system. >> - mainsail track is built-in to the mast, standard “T shaped” track with >> plastic sail slides and 2 cars on the top two full battens. >> - I lubed the sail slides with Mclube Sailkote a few months ago. That >> helped, but there’s no way the sail will drop with 25 kts of wind pressure >> on it when sailing off the wind (below a beam reach). I’m not sure even the >> best mainsail tracks truly allow you to drop sail on a broad reach in 25 >> kts anyway. >> >> >> We managed to do the reef by going to a close reach or close haul with >> the genoa at ~100% and luffing the main. But this makes a tremendous racket >> as the wind slammed the boom around in the minute or two it took to get the >> reef in. Which can’t be good for the sail and hardware. I probably should >> have sheeted in a bit more so it wasn’t luffing so bad. But it still >> would’ve been bad. I’d rather not have to use this procedure for reefing to >> begin with. Is there a better strategy? >> >> -Patrick >> S/V Violet Hour, LF38 >> Seattle, WA >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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